In his first stand-alone presentation, up-and-coming Japanese designer Kozaburo Akasaka presents an exploration of fashion influenced by rock music throughout the decades, drawing inspiration from the 90s Tokyo streetwear that surrounded him as he grew up.
Kozaburo’s Fall 2017 menswear collection has a distinctly retro spirit, featuring bellbottoms and bright red platform boots straight from the 70s, with glam accents that give them an Elvis-inspired rock and roll flair. Denim and leather jackets decorated with chains, harken to the 80s punk scene, while the black turtleneck sweater and berets are reminiscent of beatnik culture. Neo-Victorian pieces like long, tailored jackets, paired with white collared shirts and black top hats, reveal the influence of goth style.[slideshow]
The collection is a high fashion interpretation of counter-culture fashion, and this ironic juxtaposition of luxury and rawness is reflected in Kozaburo’s extensive use of designed deconstruction. Shredded silk shirts and jackets with exposed seams, styled with metal hardware details, give the collection a pirate-like character. From its serious faced, eyeliner and jewelry-clad models to its dark heavy fabrics, Kozaburo’s presentation communicates a sense of brooding androgyny that is both visceral and thought provoking, showing the young designer’s promise as an innovator.