Delphine Brasserie is now open inside Ace Hotel NoMad, the latest French brasserie in a busy fall opening season for New York. The ambiance evokes old Parisian nostalgia, blending modern fixtures with vintage allure.
We arrived to a room filled with patrons sitting and eating, trading lively conversation with their partners and guests, and waited to be seated at the bar. The space rises two levels, with a weathered white and gold ceiling over brass fixtures, distressed mirrors, and deep red curtains. The space rises two levels, with a weathered white and gold ceiling over brass fixtures, distressed mirrors, and deep red curtains. The restaurant seats 80 across two floors, with a smaller upstairs area overlooking the main dining room.
The bar anchors the room, its illuminated shelves stocked with every wine, liquor, and spirit you could think of beneath the high ceilings. The signature serve is the Delphine Martini, gin or vodka, poured tableside from a chilled carafe, alongside Champagne by the glass and classics like the French 75 and the Negroni. The team also operates the hotel’s lobby bar.
Photo Courtesy: Kateryna Melnychuk
The meal began with Le Mistral, a clarified milk punch with vodka, lemon, herbes de Provence, and coconut. The drink was balanced and easy to sip, with no overpowering flavors, making it a nice first drink to try. When the waiter came to take the next order, the Passion Piquante followed, a spicy margarita with tequila reposado, passion fruit, jalapeño, and lime. No crazy rimming or tongue-burning spice, just a mild flame that went down nicely.
The first course was the burrata with charred butternut squash, pomelo, pickled pepitas, basil, and chermoula over charred sourdough.
The tea-smoked duck breast and black tea-smoked Long Island duck served with celery root and quince purée, balsamic red endive, and duck jus were genuinely enjoyable, with a nice smoky flavor that paired well with the braised carrots, a shared plate of heirloom baby carrots in an orange coriander glaze with hazelnut vinaigrette, and crispy carrot tops.
The slow-roasted Green Circle chicken, plated with black truffle, poached figs, confit maitake, cipollini onions, and parsley root purée in a tarragon jus, would have been easier to appreciate had it been a little lighter on the salty side.
Overall, the meal was well balanced, from the drinks to the burrata to the chicken and finally ending with a chocolate dessert dusted with powdered sugar and plated with fresh berries. The table’s order also included the French onion soup and a classic crème brûlée.
Photo Courtesy: Kateryna Melnychuk
The wider menu runs from oysters on the half shell with a Champagne yuzu mignonette to the house signature steak au poivre with pommes frites. The menu also gives a nod to The Breslin, which previously occupied the space, with a lamb burger topped with red onion jam and Fourme d’Ambert.
The owner introduced himself and spent some time talking about the place and the kind of enthusiasm most restaurants carry in opening week. Delphine comes from four New York hospitality veterans, including Karim Amatullah of KRM Group, nightlife operator Lionel “KyKy” Conille, and Mino Habib and Mathias Van Leyden of Loulou Petit Bistro and Le Petit Village, with Chef Jarett Brodie running the kitchen.
With four hospitality veterans behind it and a full room in opening week, Delphine is off to a promising start.
Delphine Brasserie, 16 W 29th Street inside Ace Hotel NoMad. Breakfast daily 7 a.m. to 11 a.m., dinner from 5 p.m. until late. Reservations on Resy.
