Here’s a brief look at Feng Chen Wang Spring/Summer 2018, presented at NYFWM at Skylight Clarkson Square.
The buzzy VFILES alum and LVMH prize-nominated Feng Chen Wang has broken free of the temporary cool girl- “this page no longer exists!” look, and has occupied a new, more lasting space- one that is more culturally sensitive than ever before. “Made in China” was the idea; an attempt to reclaim the ubiquitous phrase in a more favorable way. The female designer has incorporated the air and atmosphere of her native land in a convincing and well-tailored manner. It was dominated by red, but ultimately served as a modern sportswear collection with some elements of a older period, set off by large overalls and oversize windbreakers. It was a sculptural and engaging arrangement of texture and shape- perhaps Feng Chan Wang’s greatest skill. The palette ranged from soft browns and navy, which was indicative of Wang’s sensativity toward the landscape of the country.
What’s the further suggestion of the collection? It’s something about needly utility. Functionless gloves that look like they might be significant to someone. The utility structures manifest as a belts and elastic waisted jackets and shirts. The belts are otherwise considered to be fanny packs, subject to a different sort of efficiency. A grand jacket with a slight train in plaid was a delight to see in action- a perfect dynamic of homey comfort and demure luxury, a dynamic not easily matched.
Special thanks to AXE for the invite. As part of its continued partnership with the CFDA, AXE supported nine emerging designers at Skylight Clarkson Sq (550 Washington St.) by providing backstage grooming at their shows.