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Houston, we have a problem. Or do we? Let’s ask designer Vivienne Tam, who took this year’s Fashion Week by storm at her out-of-this-world Spring/Summer ’17 Runway Show at Fashion Week’s Skylight at Moynihan Station.
Front row guests included Christina Milian, Karrueche Tran, Alysia Reiner, Nigel Barker, Zhang Li, Ingrid Nilsen, Jamie Chung, Holly Taylor, Miriam Shor, Carlson Young, Sophie Beem, Camren Bicondova, Eric West, and Tashiana Washington. Tam’s latest collection was inspired by Houston after a visit to the city, which she called a “college of cultures.” “Everyone talks about New York being the center of everything, but Houston is such an advanced city,” Tam told Vogue.The City of Houston helped the designer obtain licenses from NASA, Rice University, and the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo so she could use the logos in her designs. This collection makes Tam the first designer ever to use the NASA logo in a collection. And once the collection debuts in stores, a portion of the proceeds will go to the Houston Livestock and Rodeo Education Fund.
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The show began with NASA astronaut Tracy Dyson appearing on screen as part of a prerecorded broadcast from the International Space Station’s Mission Control in Houston. “Welcome to the fashion show,” Dyson said. Before the show began, Reiner spoke with Knockturnal about her longtime love for Tam’s clothing. “She’s the first designer I ever bought. It was a dress for my ten year high school reunion,” Reiner told Knockturnal. “It was a sheer shirt with black, white and gray embroidery and then two layers of dress, one shorter dress underneath and one longer dress that was sheer on top. I still have it.” Reiner also spoke of Tam’s signature — her embroidery. “It’s so brilliant,” she says. ” I think she makes it timeless, and I can’t wait to see what she has in store.”
And Reiner got her wish. Tam’s latest collection is everything we love from her (embroidery, beading, and timeless silhouettes) with a flash of something extra thanks to her Houston inspiration. The colors are bright and springy, from metallics to “astro orange” and “NASA blue.” And Tam actually uses both the current NASA logo, called “the meatball,” and the former logo, dubbed “the worm,” which hasn’t been used since 1992. The collection is all at once a time jump. It juxtaposes NASA, a signal of both the past and future, with designs that remind us of the late ’70s (fringe, oversized peasant blouses, and iron-ons). And, oh the fringe. We caught fringe on just about everything including vests, bags, and shirts.
Is this Tam saying that everything old is new again? Standout looks included a tie-dye tee paired with a jacket covered in Tam’s signature 3D butterflies and loose fitting pants, a white knee length tulle dress with ruffly sleeves absolutely plastered with logos, a western style denim tee with black pants, and a multicolored lace casual dress covered in butterflies. But our favorite? The white finale dress. A lace maxi covered in butterflies, NASA patches, and tied together with a black Western belt at the waist. Later, guests headed to the Skylark Rooftop Bar for the after party, where models walked the catwalk in designs ripped straight from the runway. They sipped on cocktails from two bars and had the opportunity to participate in the GIF photobooth.
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BACKSTAGE BEAUTY
Makiko Nara, Creative Lead for The Red Door Salon & Spa, was tasked with coming up with a relaxed look to balance Tam’s super creative designs. She ultimately decided on a unique twist to the topknot by pulling hair into ladylike chignons at the crown of the head. Here’s how to get the look:
- Apply Kérastase L’incroyable Blowdry into the palm of hands and apply on towel dried hair from roots to ends.
- Brush hair with Olivia Garden’s iDetangle Brush.
- Blow dry naturally using the Olivia Garden Ceramic + Ion Supreme Combo Oval Cushioned Paddle Brush to lift up the roots to create volume.
- Pull the hair upward and tight leaving a few pieces down the hairline and neck.
- Make a small knot with a hair tie, wrap around the knot, with half of the hair and leave the end free. Secure hair in place with bobby pins.
- Finish by texturizing the hair left around the neck and hairline with Kérastase V.I.P. to complete the look.
Equally natural was the makeup, a look called “Americana” by Stila, which emphasized the softening of features and only seven products. Skin was set with Stila Stay All Day Foundation then Stay All Day Bronzer for Face and Body. Magnificent Metals Foil Finish Eye Shadow in Dusty Rose was then used along with Stay All Day Waterproof Liquid Liner in Periwinkle, Stay All Day Waterproof Brow Color, and HUGE Extreme Lash Mascara. Lush Lips Water Pumping Primer was used to complete the look.