Putting together a special omakase menu is like putting together a set list for a concert.
It’s a work of art carefully curated by an artist, filled with popular hits for mass appeal, creative experiments for true enthusiasts, and ad hoc changes depending on the mood. I say all this because if an omakase is a concert, then Chef Marco Lin of Sushi Mumi has produced a symphony that I won’t soon forget.
Sushi Mumi is an exquisite restaurant helmed by Chef Marco Lin, formerly of Michelin-starred Sushi Ginza Ondera. This intimate restaurant may be one of New York’s most exclusive well, as this gem only seats 8 at the time and serves only 16 guests a day. Chef Lin’s artistry is showcased through a unique 18-course Edomae-style tasting menu, meticulously crafted with hyper-seasonal ingredients that change daily based on the produce available. Each course is a testament to Chef Lin’s innovative techniques and his commitment to highlighting the natural flavors of beautiful, prized seafood, predominantly sourced from Toyosu Market in Japan.
In addition to this, Chef Lin’s secret aging technique for his fish (excluding shellfish and silver-skinned varieties) enhances the depth and complexity of flavors by breaking down proteins into rich amino acids. Sushi Mumi also offers a small, but well-curated premium Sake list and an approachable selection by the glass or carafe.
The tasting experience begins with five small appetizers, followed by a ten-course Nigiri progression, and finished with a Soup and Dessert course. Chef Lin’s exceptional nigiri is the result of his precise process: he uses high-pH bottled water that mimics the groundwater in Japan, ensuring each grain of rice is distinct. This rice is then seasoned with a unique blend of three vinegars, emphasizing acidity over sweetness, and paired with a perfectly balanced soy sauce to create an exceptional nigiri experience.
My 18-course journey began with the Chawanmushi – an appetizer of salmon roe and wasabi served over a layer of fluffy egg. This was all beautifully presented in an egg-shaped dish that you had to unveil, like lifting a cloche. Each pop of the salmon roe filled me with delight. This course was filled with a wonderful egg flavor in a combination I’ve surprisingly never experienced before.
Next was the Hamo: a conger eel course served with jasmine vinegar jelly. The eel was puffy and meaty and was strongly contrasted with the sharp tang and floral notes of the vinegar jelly.
After that was the steamed onagadai: a long-tailed snapper steamed in sake and served with scallions in a light broth. It was a smooth white fish that tasted comfortable yet elegant.
Our next course was the Amadai Urokoyaki: fish served in a snow crab gravy. The fish was decorated with crispy rice that offered an interesting crunch to the dish as well as added a great deal of finesse to the presentation.
The final appetizer was the Chilean sea bass that was served in a sansho pepper sauce. This was without a doubt one of the best things I’ve eaten all year and I’ve been busy reviewing restaurants throughout 2024. The sansho pepper sauce was sweet, almost like a mix of teriyaki and eel sauce. The fish was soft and melted in my mouth, with the fatty back of the filet adding a rich taste akin to beef fat.
After the appetizers was a small seaweed course which served as a palate cleanser. The appetizers, while different, were all of a similar, albeit wonderful, note. Like the quiet drone of the string section warming up before a symphony, it was a wonderful variety of generally subtle yet varied flavors.
Before we knew it, we were on to the ten-course nigiri portion of the evening, starting with Ishigakidai, or spotted Knifejaw which came from Toyama. It was mild, meaty, and perfectly complimented with soy sauce.
Next was the Kinmedai – golden eye snapper, which struck a similar chord but on a different scale. Needless to say, it was great. From there, we moved on to the shima aji – striped jack from Oita. This was so incredible I forgot to take a photo.
Then we had the hotate – sea scallops from Iwate, which was endlessly creamy.
After that was the Akami – lean tuna from Aomori. First off, I’ve never seen tuna this red. It was so bright, I could’ve easily mistaken it for candy. The presentation didn’t disappoint as this was the best Tuna I’ve ever had, even surpassing that which I had on my recent trip to Japan.
Finally, the moment that I was most excited about arrived. The O Toro, or Fatty Tuna. What can be said other than it melted in my mouth and was a sensation?
Up to this point, all of the nigiri felt like variations of the same chord – all wonderful meaty, sweet, and creamy. But with the kanpachi or amberjack, we ventured into some truly interesting territory. It had an interesting texture and unique taste compared to the rest of the menu so far.
Then we moved into the sanma, the pike mackerel from Hokkaido. It had a rich salty taste and deep flavors. The scored skin also added an interesting textural note to the course.
From there we moved to the uni, which came from Hokkaido as well and was incredibly fresh.
To cap it off, we had the tamago. Now I know some say a sushi restaurant can be judged by the quality of its tamago. I can’t attest to the veracity of that grading metric, but I would believe it as the tamago I’ve had here is easily the best I’ve ever had. It was sweet and had a caramelized top, almost as if I was eating a warm gelatinous piece of fudge as opposed to an egg.
After the nigiri was the soup of sea scallop and sea bream. The soup had an amalgam of the bream and sea scallops combined in a ball and it was a blend far more interesting than I expected.
Last but not least, was the yuzu peppercorn ice cream, which was a refreshing treat and the perfect way.
With that, the dining experience ended. It felt like the end of a concert with visitors reflecting on their experience and basking in the ambience of the environment. If I had to liken this menu to a song, it would be the Beatles’ “A Day in the Life”. A soft start into a melodic chorus, and a rapid descent into a controlled cacophony of sensation that will leave you wanting more. The appetizers were a calm warm-up filled with fun surprises and interesting flavors that led into the nigiri which started strong, peaking at the O Toro and then madly dashing across a wide range of flavors – all of which were fantastic.
I’ve spent the last year reviewing several restaurants across New York City and I think Sushi Mumi will likely take the prize of my favorite restaurant of 2024. An omakase may be a bit steep at $250 but I guarantee you that it’s worth every penny and will likely be somewhere I visit again.
