The Oxford Fashion Studio I showcase at Pier 59 mixed experimental designs with ready-to-wear silhouettes to spotlight eight newcomer designers.
The show kicked off with Chaahat Thakker’s line Déplico, drawing on childlike inspirations from her experience as a kids sewing teacher. The uninhibited viewpoint is evident in the visual media Chaahat creates– oversized geometric pleating, felted materials, and unexpected color pairings. The four-piece collection consisted of dresses and a crop top with a mini skirt.
British brand Poli and Jo debuted their Defender collection offering a utilitarian twist on the classic cotton bag. Their durable oversized totes–all made in England–featured a red seam along the trim of each canvas bag. Models in all-white outfits carried the waterproof totes by their bridle leather handles, sometimes wearing multiple bags at a time.
Designer Farah Naz displayed her showstopping vintage-inspired pieces, wowing the overflowing audience. The collection, rooted in the symbol of a lotus flower, utilized tulle, French lace, and silk. Each dress was hand-embroidered with Swarovski crystals, rhinestones, sequins, or pearls, adorning the regal gowns with a refined shimmer. Standout looks included a rich navy sequined gown accompanied by a matching cape for modern twist on a Grace Kelly-esque mid-century ensemble and a white mini dress with front pockets and large pearls recalling classic Chanel.
Yet Farah Naz’s collection was distinctly her own, creating an oasis of beauty, flattery, and vintage aesthetic amongst her timeless gowns. The grand finale– the ultimate royal wedding gown complete with a tiara and feather-trimmed veil–rightfully brought the audience to their feet.
Next Ron Ramos heated up the runway with a twist on sophisticated seduction. Part Charlie’s Angels, part Prohibition mobster, the menswear-inspired collection redefined modern tailored looks, opting for leather-trimmed details and faux fur-dipped accessories. The cohesive collection featured pieces to be easily layered or inter-changed– think Jessica Rabbit if she stole some of Roger’s suits.
Moving through blacks, navys, and burgundies, models walked with alluring strength, no doubt stemming from the slinking silky suits and feather-brimmed hats they wore. A navy deep-v suit was swoon-worthy, and the show concluded with a burgundy high-slit cutout dress, paired with the men’s gangster hat of course.
Williamsburg designer Seray Sacan swept up viewers in her vacation-ready collection for Minzkou. Dubbed The Boholective Wave, Sacan’s beaded and hand-knitted woven pieces told an intoxicating story of exotic adventure. The Minzkou two-piece pale pink tied top and matching skirt, drenched in perfect beading and paired with enhanced large matching earrings, called to mind an island escape.
A stunning nude gown with small woven multicolored appliqués had all the makings of a showstopping piece, but the true title of best dress went to a raw silk tasseled long beaded stunner that floated down the runway, reminiscent of what one can only describe as a fantastical mermaid flapper. Minzkou prides itself on using only eco-friendly materials, cruelty-free silks, and naturally dyed fabrics, and we can’t wait to see what Sacan does next.
Jisu Lim followed with a mens and women’s streetwear collection inspired by New York signs and graffiti. An orange see-through mesh mock neck top with “Sidewalk Closed” written on a patch in the front was paired with a loose take on army-printed pants and futuristic large rectangular glasses as the model wore a sleek ponytail, bridging chaos with simplicity.
Brush strokes evoking paint splattered sidewalks adorned select pieces, most memorable on a black mesh dress styled with large hoops and a metal choker.
NC by Charly Nzogang reminded viewers that winter is coming with his innovative take on streetwear. The closet-ready styles included rope drawstring belt details, oversized hoods, and cutout styles. Origami folding and exaggerated wide sleeves made a chambray jumpsuit a showstopping piece as the garment beautifully hung from the model down the catwalk.
It girls everywhere will obsess over the torso-baring powder white dress, the uniform of an urban warrior. Based in Brussels, Nzogang credits Marvel and Manga among his design inspirations, seeking to remind women they are superheroes, flying not required.
The Oxford Fashion Studio showcase ended with a display of Korean designer Jyu Ri Ri’s latest collection, titled “EGO-FRIENDLY.” The theme for the collection directly relates to Jyu Ri Ri’s personal upbringing; at age 31, she embarked on a fashion career much to the dismay of her family. “EGO-FRIENDLY,” according to Jyu Ri Ri, is an ode to strong-willed women.
Looks ranged from velvet leopard-spotted sheer dresses with Victorian collars to oversized paper doll style jackets. The large structured coat with a single floral design was an editorial moment for Jyu Ri Ri, followed by a crowd-favorite plaid suit with a deep pink mohair-lined hood (hello new fall trend color!) that merged comfort and style, making an outfit to die for.
The Oxford Fashion Studio I showcase for Fall/Winter set the tone for an impressive fall, prompting us all to check our calendars for when these pieces will be available to buy.
