From historic thermal baths to vineyard tastings and gateway access to the Black Forest, Baden-Baden offers travelers the ultimate escape in Southwest Germany.
Yes, you too can vacay like Victoria and David Beckham — as well as Ed Sheeran, Olivia Palermo, and even Mark Twain.
Often celebrated as Germany’s version of Paris for its graceful boulevards, luxurious spas, and opulent sense (and tastes) of glamour — Baden-Baden has been attracting royalty, celebrities and curious travelers for centuries.
And it’s quite easy to see why as this charmer of a spa town has been practically perfecting the art of relaxation for over 2,000 years. Nestled in the foothills of the Black Forest, Baden-Baden pairs historic elegance with modern luxury. Whether you’re a wellness enthusiast, a foodie, or just someone who enjoys a little pampering, this is a city to soak, sip, and savor throughout your stay.
At the modern, large-domed Caracalla Spa, guests can wander between indoor and outdoor thermal pools, hot and cold grottoes and a medley of steam baths and brine inhalation rooms. There’s also a Roman-style sauna upstairs — which is entirely a “textile-free” space. In other words, no clothing allowed in the saunas. The pools — including the numerous water massage jets found throughout the spa — are designed to have a rejuvenating effect on the muscles, joints, and skin.
Photo courtesy of Friedrichsbad spa
Then there’s Friedrichsbad, Baden-Baden’s other major star sighting in the world of spas. And the one gracing their stage since 1877, when this temple of Roman-Irish bathing was once deemed to be the most modern bathing establishment in Europe. Mark Twain once opined, “You lose track of time after ten minutes and track of the world after twenty.” The co-ed spa alternates between days with swimwear — and those without. As of this writing, you can dare to go bare Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, or Sunday. Or keep your swimsuits on Wednesday and Saturday.
Of course, what’s often called ‘the good-good life’ in Baden-Baden isn’t just about relaxing at spas — it’s also indulging. In food. In wine. And the glamorous Belle Epoque casino that has defined the city since the 1830s, putting it on the map as Europe’s summer capital of the 19th century.
Marlene Dietrich once described the Kurhaus casino as “the most beautiful casino in the world.” Fyodor Dostoevsky had perhaps too much fun here, and was inspired to write his novel The Gambler to pay off some of his debts he incurred — which really, ended up as a win-win for everyone.
So no matter whether your game of choice is roulette, blackjack, poker, or people-watching, a step inside’s an essential, not-to-miss part of the experience. Walk around the Kurhaus casino, take in the opulent chandeliers, and burn off some of the calories you’re sure to indulge in throughout your stay.
Because Germany’s cuisine is both unique and distinctly its own so if food’s your real inspiration for traveling, you’re in luck.
Let’s start with what some consider the most important meal of the day — dessert. Because from Black Forest gateaus to Linzer Tortes and more, German cakes reign supreme among many dessert lovers’ bucket lists.
In Baden-Baden, the go-to spot for anyone wanting something scrumptious and divinely sugary is the historic Café König. I checked out two of their most popular creations: the Black Forest and raspberry cakes and both were light and delicious.
Dine with a view of Lichtentaler Allee at the restaurant Rizzi. One of my favorite meals in Germany, the restaurant has a wide selection but I started with the beef tartar appetizer with black truffle and truffle cream and finished it off with the octopus that came with roasted artichoke hearts, puttanesca sauce and rosemary potatoes.
Along with the excellent cuisine, the patio has a lively, sociable vibe and I struck up a few conversations with people who lived nearby — because Rizzi is also a fave among locals — and they were insistent that I visit Café König for their cakes. (Mission accomplished!)
Photo courtesy of Weingut Kopp
Another definitive favorite will have you venturing just a bit outside of the city for an unforgettable wine experience at Weingut Kopp where you can enjoy a multi-course meal and overlook the vineyards. It’s so lovely here that couples have selected it as their wedding venue.
The hospitality is fantastic as well, and wines that showcase the region’s unique terroir. The on-site restaurant serves seasonally-sourced dishes that are equally impressive. I started with the wild garlic foam soup, topped with a fried beef praline, and for the main course, I had the salmon accompanied by wild garlic potato cream and fennel bisque. If you’re noting a theme here (hint: it’s the wild garlic), that’s because it was a seasonal, locally-sourced ingredient I don’t recall ever encountering at home. When in Germany, try pretzels — and apparently wild garlic — because it was absolutely delicious. Other items on the menu included roast beef, gnocchi, yellowfish tuna tataki and more.
Dessert was a surprisingly light medley of gelato, berries, and chocolate that almost looked too pretty to eat. Be sure to check it out.
And the Böckeler confectionery, located in town, has an array of pretzels and other treats when you’re on the go.
Then somewhere in between all your relaxing and enjoying life’s sweet indulgences, take a quick break to the Black Forest. It’s just a quick ride from the city center via the Merkur funicular railway, where you can soak in the quiet beauty that’s inspired centuries of German folklore (as well as more than a few Disney movies) with panoramic mountain views over Baden-Baden and the Rhine Valley.
You can also visit the Merkurstüble restaurant here to indulge in local tastes and have even more Black Forest cake in the Black Forest.
And where to stay when you want to get a jumpstart on resting and relaxing at the hotel?
Roomers Baden-Baden, part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, is an elegantly modern home-away-from-home that is just a few minutes walk from the main hub of the town. When you check in, you’ll be offered a choice of sparkling wine, beer or water to kick off your stay in the beautifully designed hotel and a hallway lined with cuckoo clocks that is basically asking for some pics to post on social.
Photo courtesy of Roomers Baden-Baden
Your room itself is sleek, sexy and modern — kind of a reimagining of what the Belle Epoque aesthetic might look like today. Amenities include a very luxe robe you might want to bring back home with you, along with the hotel’s own spa and a pool with views overlooking the town.
In the mornings, enjoy a delicious breakfast buffet with all the goodies you’d expect (fresh fruit, lox, scrambled eggs, croissants, breads, and cheeses), along with fun extras like a variety of smoothie options, pretzel bread, fresh honey, and fig mustard. They also offer special made-to-order options, such as pancakes, waffles, Eggs Benedict and a large selection of coffees and teas with names that range from ‘Space Cookie’ to classic ‘English Breakfast.’
Cover Art – © Baden-Baden Tourismus GmbH / Paul Michael
