With strong investment, a renewed sponsorship of Cannes Film Festival, and a vision for a sustainable future, Champagne Telmont is riding high. Here’s what’s next.
Deep into an intimate dinner in New York City earlier this year, I recall a particular moment. The night wore on and the whole table had eventually centered its attention on Champagne Telmont president Ludovic du Plessis who was amid an impassioned exercise. With distinct enthusiasm, Mr. du Plessis was describing his house’s commitment to perfecting a bottle of Champagne. He sounded almost exasperated, as if words weren’t enough to accent the urgency and enthusiasm. “We can be doing so much with the bottle.” He smiled briefly. “Understand that the bottle is too thick. The packaging is wasteful. The gift boxes are crazy. Even the cork, well… we have not even talked about the Champagne itself.” The table laughed, but Ludovic stayed installed in his sincerity.
Indeed, as recently as this week, record temperatures, roaring fires, and snowless winters are subjecting hamlets of human ingenuity to existential risk. The Champagne region of France one of those hamlets. Cherished for its delicate production process and status as the drink of celebration, Champagne’s obsession with tradition could determine its downfall.
Normally concerned with status and value, Mr. du Plessis is a veteran in luxury goods, starting in the cigar business, then working his way into the drinks industry, spending 10 years at Dom Pérignon and Moët & Chandon. He joined LOUIS XIII Cognac as Global Executive Director before coming to Champagne Telmont in 2020.
Founded by the Lhôpital family in 1912, Telmont’s success came from the Lhôpital family’s passion for winemaking and their dedication to producing top-quality champagne (even today a direct descendent of the family the head winemaker). Over the years, Telmont has remained family-owned and has passed down its winemaking techniques and knowledge from one generation to another. Telmont was always unique for its lilt toward earth-forward, progressive winemaking (even by traditional standards).
Champagne Telmont
Telmont is now spearheading the ecological revolution in Champagne while maintaining a truly special taste. “We have one foot in tradition and one foot in modernity, but both feet down in the Earth and the soil.” says du Plessis. “We believe in everything we do because we believe that wine is good if the Earth is beautiful.”
The brand’s devotion to sustainability is seen through its viticulture and transparency. This ethos culminated in Telmont’s 2021 project “Au Nom de la Terre,” “In The Name of Mother Nature,” which is both a manifesto and series of practical actions the house has undertaken and continues to undertake.
There is no question that sustainability has become a cornerstone for a what makes a successful brand today. But with brands getting caught “greenwashing” with marketing hubbub, promises without substance do little to help the cause.
Arguably, this broader issue with the perception of sustainability is Telmont’s biggest challenge. Action is the only way to combat it. Telmont is already on the way with regular soil and quality reports, the planned launch of a completely reimagined bottle that is lighter and recyclable thanks to its green finish, and the very expensive undertaking of converting all vines to 100% organic production. That’s where real expense comes, though. “Organic agriculture conversion. Only 4 percent of Champagne is certified organic today. It is not easy. But it is worth it.”
Champagne Telmont Reserve de la Terre. Photo: Benjamin Schmidt
Telmont offers a concise list of very refined and elegant wines that pair effortlessly with seafoods as well as more classic synchronies, such as caviar and creme. Among offering, the Réserve Brut is the result of a subtle marriage of three grape varieties and the flagship bottle. The Réserve de la Terre is the house’s organic champagne, totally unique and bold in its taste; tantalizingly authentic in its craftsmanship.
As the world changes, will Champagne change with it? The interesting story of Champagne Telmont doesn’t end in a silo. “We want to show what it means to be a sustainable Champagne house. We want other houses to use the lighter bottles, the few wastes. We want other houses to join us in buying and growing organic grapes.” Many are onboard with the premise, as investors include Rémy Cointreau and actor Leonardo DiCaprio.
For the Champagne, tradition is everything. But Ludovic du Plessis and Champagne Telmont are charting a course to show sustainability can be the tradition.
Learn more about Champagne Telmont and the house’s initiatives here.
