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Restaurant Review: Kintsugi Omakase NYC

by Megan D'Souza
written by Megan D'Souza

  Kintsugi Omakase NYC, a sleek chef’s counter-style sushi “atelier” in lower Soho, recently upped their game by bringing on Chef Victor of Sushi Ko. To find out what the buzz was about, we stopped by this week to sample their new menu, which changes with the seasons for the freshest ingredients. 

 

Chef Victor follows the traditional edomae (referencing the style originating from Edo Bay) style of sushi-making, but puts a modern twist on his art. He uses non-traditional, non-Japanese ingredients to flavor some of his dishes, and his close relationship with NYC fishmongers allows him to source the freshest, finest seafood available. The difference is palpable – one bite of Kintsugi’s Hokkaido Ikura (salmon roe) or uni and it’s clear how high-quality the ingredients are. 

 

In addition to technique and ingredient excellence, Kintsugi Omakase stands out by its use of seasonal ingredients. Typical of new Nordic or farm-to-table style restaurants, Kintsugi brings flavors of the month to sushi, where most establishments would stick to the tried-and-true traditions. Since it’s autumn, our dishes featured a green apple puree paired with a smoked Sawara and apple cider, baby corn with crispy fried fish, and other winter seafood delicacies. 

 

When I asked Chef Victor what his favorite season of ingredients was, he told us “fall and winter, because they have the weirdest items.” Weird as they may be, he prepared them to perfection – half the dishes were items I’d never heard of, and I’m a sushi aficionado. Host Ko told us they aim to “take your palate on an adventure you’ve never been on before.” This delectable adventure featured a codfish sperm sac (winter only), crispy fried Amadai (tilefish) with its scales (dubbed by Chef Victor as natural fish and chips), a pickled fish similar to the herring popular in northern Europe, and barracuda. 

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In addition to the sushi tasting, each menu option includes a handroll, the best miso soup you’ve ever tried, bruleed tamago, and a dessert (the current one is black sesame and ginger ice cream – a scoop of each). Finishing off the meal with these comforting plates was the perfect way to wind down from the experiential tasting. We also highly recommend the restaurant’s singular cocktail: a yuzu and violet syrup enhanced sake. I’d come back for this item alone; clearly the team at Kintsugi has the expertise to open a successful bar, if they wanted!

 

Dining at Kinstugi Omakase NYC is an experience that can’t be missed if you’re a foodie in this city. Their 10-person dining room, carefully designed by creative partners Ashe Yeung and Tim Madrid, feels intimate and sophisticated. But definitely not stuffy – Chef Victor’s lighthearted jokes and sarcastic commentary make you instantly comfortable with him, and we enjoyed hearing his descriptions of his craft while watching him expertly assemble each mouthwatering bite. We can’t wait to come back. Book your reservation at Kintsugi here ASAP!

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Lifestyle

Restaurant Review: The Den at Azabu New York

by Megan D'Souza
written by Megan D'Souza

Earlier this year, we got to check out Plan Do See’s famous Bubusan and Azabu New York. On Saturday, we went back to Azabu for their premier dining experience. The bottom level of the restaurant boasts a world-class Omakase experience: The Den. Nestled into a quiet street in Hudson Square, the New York location of Azabu Sushi draws inspiration from its wildly successful Miami counterpart while bringing in elements of New York charm. 

It boasts a new name, new menu, and new space: Azabu New York aims to transport guests to Tokyo’s Azabu neighborhood, known today for its laid-back, chic vibe but originally as a hub for merchants and traders. 

The interior of Azabu New York’s space is inspired by Buddhist and Shinto aesthetic qualities, with calming, simple decor, a hidden sliding-door entrance, and Noguchi lamps. Architect Ian Bentley of NOISE was the creative mind behind the new design. The Den emulates Buddhist design and Azabu captures Shinto elements, with its soft blonde wood counters and touches of cobalt blue. 

 

We stopped by their happy hour launch a few months ago to sample some cocktails and excellently crafted nigiri, and learn more about the revamped Azabu’s mission. Sake, white wine, and red wine were served in beautifully designed cups as guests attending the launch settled into the clean, cozy space. We loved that happy hour, and were highly anticipating the opening of The Den, their second concept location of the Michelin-starred omakase speakeasy inside Azabu Miami Beach.

 

Our meal at The Den was an expertly crafted experience, led by Chef Toshihide Terado, who has over 20 years of culinary experience across the globe. The meal consisted of a series of appetizers, a toro tasting, chef’s choice seasonal nigiri, and finished off with miso soup and dessert. We started off with a carafe of Suijin Junmai sake, which was served in ornamental aluminum cups designed to conduct and maintain the temperature of the drink. It was the refreshing palate cleanser I craved and kept reaching for throughout the meal.

The few courses were a delish spread of crab salad, a mackerel preparation, squid and mantis shrimp. Each was bursting with flavor, both sweet and savory, and watching the careful creation of each dish took eating it to the next level. The nigiri portion of the Omakase began with a toro tasting: Akami (lean tuna), Chu-toro (medium fatty tuna), O-toro (fatty tuna) came out prepared with real wasabi, soy sauce, and sudachi (japanese lime). We had about 4 more pieces of nigiri which all blew me away, but my favorite was the Sanma which is also a type of mackerel. We wrapped up the meal with my favorite course of the night: uni rice topped with salmon roe and more firm uni. Decadent, creamy, and briny, this dish combined two of my favorite seafood items into one delicious flavor profile carried by the rice. After those amazing courses, we had some light and fluffy japanese omlette, comforting miso soup, and finished off the meal with the most juicy melon I’ve ever had. 

Eating at The Den is an experience that treats all the senses, and it’s clear to see why the original Miami location earned a Michelin star. I loved all the dishes and the Chef’s explanations, and can’t wait to try more of Azabu New York’s offerings.

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Restaurant Review: The Oval at La Devozione

by Megan D'Souza
written by Megan D'Souza

A few weeks ago, we tried the new Italian restaurant in Chelsea Market. A less rushed alternative to the market’s typical grab-and-go options, La Devozione offers fine dining, casual dining, a market of artisanal goods, and also takeout. If the restaurant’s name sounds familiar, it’s because they stem from a well known pasta manufacturer with roots dating back more than 110 years – Pastificio di Martino. Their story is fascinating, with the aforementioned origins to the first takeaway stand in Naples, to now expanding into restaurants in the United States. Our last visit involved dining at A Tavola, their casual dining area, and we couldn’t wait to try The Oval for an immersive tasting experience with Chef Alessio Rosetti. 

Well, today was that day! We entered Chelsea Market and wandered over to the restaurant, nestled in the very center across from the open-concept food court. Soon, we were seated at the impressive chef’s counter: an oblong round tabletop surrounding state-of-the-art stovetops, ovens, pasta stations, and more, also known as The Oval.

 

We began our meal with a few cocktails: the American Rose and the Select Aperitivo. Both drinks had a citrusy, bitter flavor profile with the former boasting a bit of fizz and the latter holding a more floral component from the juniper berries. They paired perfectly with our first course, which was a wafer made of over-boiled and mashed up pasta, then spread thin, seasoned with classic italian herbs, and dried out. It also came with two breadsticks, and delicious ‘cookies’ made with pork fat and crushed almonds. So unique, with familiar tastes but brand new formats, made for the perfect carb-based appetizer. 

The second course was our first pasta, the Spaghettini a Limone. Bright and acidic yet balanced due to the creamy provolone sauce, it excited us about the rest of the courses to come. Lemon pasta is one of my absolute favorite dishes, so I could have happily eaten an entire meal of this alone. Next, the Pacchero Calabria arrived. A plate of 4 large paccheri, each topped with bergamot glaze, smoked swordfish, and fennel fronds, were like little flavor explosions. Citrusy and fresh, earthy, and smoky essences filled your mouth for a true gastronomical experience. I loved this small, punchy dish!

 

Next, the Sogno Rosso was a spaghetti with caviar and parlsey foam that came out for our fourth course. It was plated gorgeously with voluminous bright green parsley foam that keeps its shape for longer than expected. The flavors, once swirled together, were earthy and complex. The Marco Polo, a roasted beet goat cheese pasta, arrived next: a bright magenta colored sauce served in a large wine glass. Goat cheese comprised the main flavor, which quickly melted and incorporated into the pink sauce. This brightened the dish and added a whipped, creamy texture.      

Our next course was a pick-your-own adventure: either the Candele Rotto a Mare or the Candele BBQ. Of course, we each chose one so we could sample both dishes. The Candele Rotto a Mare was a cripsy medley of octopus, squid, cuttlefish, and asparagus covered in a ragu sauce. The result? A seafood-heavy flavor balanced by the classic, neutral comfort of a red sauce that blended perfectly. The Candele BBQ was one of our favorite items of the night, with sizzling pork belly and creamy artichoke.

The final food course was the restaurant’s namesake dish – La Devozione. A simple tomato basil sauce yet so complex and satisfying in flavor, this pasta absolutely cannot disappoint – and that’s due to the quality of its ingredients. Tomatoes are from Sorrento which are harvested in the summer and canned to send to the US in the fall. In contrast to San Marzano tomatoes, these are richer and sweeter, giving the sauce an extraordinary flavor. This was our favorite item last time as it’s also on A Tavola’s menu, and was definitely near the top this time as well.

 

For dessert, we had a lime tart, which was a unique twist on the indulgent lemon tart. We finished off our meal with smooth, creamy espresso brewed in the moka pots La Devozione sells in their market. They were a delicious end to a decadent, artful meal. We highly recommend The Oval to anyone looking for an experience far greater than just a meal – a creative, interactive Chef-led lesson in Italian cuisine.

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