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Restaurant Review: A Punjabi Celebration Airlifted to Chelsea

by Truman Fritz August 4, 2023
by Truman Fritz August 4, 2023 0 comments
1.1K

Guests can expect a wide array of delightful cocktails and small plates, infused with eastern flavors, in a sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere at this contemporary Indian spot in Chelsea.

In Indian culture, a ‘roka’ ceremony is one of the most significant ceremonies in advance of a Punjabi wedding. The roka is a major marker to begin the unification of the family and friends of the bride and groom. Spirits are lifted, the air is filled with laughter, and song and dance are abound, and all of it brought to fruition through the sharing of a meal. Inspired by this poetic celebration, Monica Saxena, owner of aRoqa, a Michelin-recognized Chelsea eatery, has brought India to our doorstep through an immersive and lively culinary experience, with the mission of using delicious food and skillful presentation to bring us closer together.

In the style of sharing, aRoqa’s menu is designed around small plates which you can’t afford to adventure into solo, or else risking that you’ll be full before the end of your journey. For all audiences, we recommend starting with the lasuni gobi, gram flour-battered cauliflower caked in garlic sauce displayed on a miniature truck and garnished with charcoal-black onion seeds. In tandem, the corn paddu was a shocking hit for the night: corn and rice fritters combined with coconut kaffir lime chutney. Deceptively simple, they explode on your tongue into a universe of salty herbs and warm spices.

The lasuni gobi, a delicious start to your culinary experience.

Those craving a more substantial shared plate with some added protein can also order the Bhatti murgh chop, a tandoor-grilled chicken dish, cooked to perfection and served en flambé in rum, paired with an appetizingly gritty gram flour chutney. Alternatively, spring for the chopped prawn cutlets, fried in a panko crust with a mouth-watering blend of south Indian spices. For a larger plate, the goan shrimp curry is also a delicious, sautéed shrimp dish that charges headfirst with its blend of coconut tamarind sauce.

Vegetarians and gluten-fearing foodies will have a field day at aRoqa. First on the list is the paratwala paneer, a layered cheese dish stuffed with sundried tomato and spinach puree and served steaming hot. The paneer even comes with a two small pipets to top it with sauces, one with a bitter, vinegar-like plum dressing, and another creamy one with a yogurt-like base. Add to it the house special: sautéed okra bathed in blended onion tomato sauce and glazed with a hint of pomegranate, transforming an otherwise unassuming mallow with earthy acids and punchy fruit notes.

Don’t skip on the cocktails either. With a wide breadth of spirits for a variety of tastes, aRoqa strives to bring presentation to the forefront without sacrificing on quality. As recommended to us by our server, our companion ordered the Margiold & Smoke, saffron and vanilla-infused vodka blended with cordial and muddled with ginger and habanero tincture. I went the more old-fashioned route and ordered the 206 Fashion, featuring bourbon infused with dates and raisin, and spiced up with all spice syrup, bitters, and orange. Both drinks were immaculately well-balanced, just as the food was.

The 206 Fashion, a sweet take on a classic bourbon cocktail.

aRoqa certainly lives up to the spirit of a roka. The spirit of sharing is alive and well, designed right into the menu focused on two main sections: tasting, and sharing. Combined with Indian cuisine, the levels of heat and spice are approachable for everyone. Heat is omnipresent, essentially to many dishes, but never too much to become unbearable to less acquainted palettes. And this atmosphere extends even beyond the food: even on a Monday night, the venue was reasonably well-packed and vibrant with conversation. A handful of sparklers were also set, embracing the celebratory nature of the roka.

For those seeking a convivial, intimate, and relaxed ambience, paired with a contemporary take on Indian cuisine and cocktails, look no further than aRoqa.

aRoqa can be found on the corner of 23rd St and 9th Ave in Manhattan. Hours and reservations are available at their website at aroqanyc.com.

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Truman Fritz

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