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Lifestyle

Indian Restaurant Utsav Revolutionizes Manhattan’s Indochinese Cuisine Offerings

by Ishan Wankavala December 1, 2022
written by Ishan Wankavala

Indian Decadence

Utsav, a second-floor restaurant located directly opposite the Diamond District, and not far from Times Square, initially gives a quiet impression. There is no corporate overture, no grand entrance, and no boastful accomplishments smeared on the walls, as seen in many of Utsav’s competitors.

Jaison, the General Manager

Instead, a walk past a quaint bar and up a flight of stairs led straight to the lobby of the restaurant; elegant but modest, and not at all overdone. Classic Indian decor lined the walls, adding to the delicate story of the scene without being ostentatious. I was greeted by Jaison, the General Manager, and before long, I was seated at a cordial table with a view gazing up at several towering skyscrapers located right across the street.

Indochinese Refined

At the table, I was given a food and drink menu, and I began examining my options. What delighted me at once was to see carefully denoted vegetarian options, separated from those with meat, which made it easy for me to find what I could eat. Being familiar with Indochinese cuisine, I found some familiar favorites, like Chili Paneer and Hakka Noodles, as well as several new items I had not before encountered, such as Crispy Chili Babycorn. Every item looked deliberately chosen, and nothing seemed in excess or without purpose; in a relatively short Indochinese menu, all bases of the cuisine were covered for any preference. Soon, Nandita Khanna, the owner of the restaurant herself, came to greet me. She was extremely friendly, but also chose her words carefully and seemed to peruse over each sentence before delivery. We discussed the purpose of my visit, and then she began explaining her story.

A History in Fine Dining

Nandita comes from a long line of restaurant owners, in a family where food is a deeply rooted tradition worldwide. Despite her grandfather owning nineteen restaurants in Tokyo, they had had their beginning in Calcutta, India, Nandita’s home city. “Calcutta is the Indochinese center of the world,” she told me. “This is where the best dishes come from.” She explained how Utsav is the only restaurant owned by her family in America, and thus, she has no other members to assist her in its daily operations. “It was tough for the last several years, especially with Covid. We lost a lot of business. I didn’t even have money to pay my landlord sometimes,” she explained grimly. However, unlike many other specialized restaurants that closed during the pandemic, Utsav was able to prosper once more. “It’s rare for a female owner to make it in the restaurant business. We recovered from Covid, but I have not reached my goal yet. There is still more work to be done.”

Appetizers

To begin, Nandita asked me what I had tried previously at other restaurants, and what dishes I preferred. She made recommendations utilizing my responses.

Chili Paneer

Crispy Chili Babycorn

After I told her I am a big fan of paneer, she implored me to try her Chili Paneer. “You’ll also love the Cauliflower Manchurian and the Crispy Chili Babycorn,

I know it’s exactly what you’ll like,” she stated vehemently. Trusting her judgement, I obliged. I appreciated her effort in catering to my preferences, and simultaneously bringing me out of my comfort zone to try something I would have otherwise missed. Nandita also recommended several original cocktails, and I chose to try a turmeric-ginger one, and after assuring her that I could handle the spice, a jalapeño coriander one.

Indian-inspired cocktails

The drinks were delivered to me, and I realized I could not in fact handle the spice. Still, they were light and refreshing, and I welcomed the Indian twist. The appetizers also began to trickle to my table, and I noticed there was special care taken in the presentation—each dish was beautifully lain, with sauces and garnishes perfectly arranged and appealing to the eye. All three plates were great: the babycorn was crispy and perfectly seasoned (I wish it was available at movie theaters), the manchurian’s gravy was succulent, spicy, and thick, and the chili paneer was the highlight, with the paneer cooked to the perfect consistency and the sauce tangy and flavorful. The appetizers left me with anticipation for what could be next.

Entrées

Nandita already had some entrées in mind when she came back to my table. Recognizing that I absolutely loved the paneer appetizer, she suggested I order the Paneer Szechuan for the main course. She also added a Manchurian Vegetable, a Burnt Garlic Coriander Fried Rice, and for something more familiar, a Vegetarian Hakka Noodle. After ordering, I conversed with her further, learning that she would be traveling back to India the very next day. “You picked the perfect day to visit,” she told me. “After today and I would not have been present to serve you.” She explained how she had not been home to India since prior to the pandemic, and she would be going back for the first time in three years. “I do not have any family here, everyone is back in Calcutta.”

My food arrived, and if the appetizers shocked me, the entrées were on a whole different level. Deeply enriched with various spices and sauces, and possessing a definite inspiration from traditional Indian-Chinese cooking, but with a tantalizing modern presentation, each dish was a journey to behold. The aromatic gravy of the Szechuan Paneer, with sautéed onions and peppers mixed in, was unbelievable.

Burnt Garlic Coriander Fried Rice

Not being a fan of rice, I was still unable to help myself to the garlicky pangs of flavor emanating from the coriander rice, and the Hakka noodles and Manchurian left little to be desired. Each plate, carefully crafted with an eye for detail, left me with a different experience; each had a story.

Dessert

For dessert, I was reluctant to try something new. I had ventured into the realm of Indian sweets before, and I had never been impressed; the overly sugary confectionary taste was not for me. Nonetheless, Nandita assured me that her classic Mishti Doi would be perfect for me. She told me it was a Bengali delicacy, and with little other information, I trusted her judgement and ordered it. I also ordered a traditional Ras Malai, an Indian milk-based dessert that I was fond of, as backup.

I was pleasantly surprised by the Mishti Doi. A family recipe, Nandita explained what the name means: mishti is “sweet” in Bengali, and doi was analogous to “dahi”, a word for southeast-asian yogurt. The dish was sweet-yogurt indeed— a creamy, reddish-orange hue curd presented in a chilled clay pot. It was simply delicious, with a lightly sweetened taste that was not at all overbearing. Of course, the Ras Malai was perfect as well.

A Story Through Cuisine

Thoroughly having enjoyed my meal, and bidding Nandita and her servers farewell, I began to reflect on the insight I had gained about the restaurant.

Iconic Decor

Utsav has been open for nearly 23 years, almost a quarter of a century. After it was opened in 2000, it has been giving every restaurant goer a taste of what it means to not only serve good food, but to have a purpose behind the food. Nandita wishes to share her culture and heritage, the very essence of her upbringing in the city of Calcutta, with each of her patrons, and this is clearly evident.

You can see it in the excitement she has when suggesting a dish, or the way her eyes light up when explaining what it consists of. She is a living testimony to presenting food as an art form—a piece only becomes art once there is a story behind it.

I cannot recommend Utsav enough, and I implore anyone that is in the area to visit it at the corner of 6th Ave and W 47th street in Manhattan.

December 1, 2022 0 comment
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FeaturedLifestyleThe Latest

NYC Restaurant ‘Casa Dani’ Adds New Item to Menu to Celebrate World Paella Day For a Limited Time Only

by Rebecca Eugene September 20, 2022
written by Rebecca Eugene

The team at Casa Dani, located in NYC, has come together to offer guests a new menu item to celebrate World Paella Day for a limited amount of time. 

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September 20, 2022 0 comment
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LifestyleThe Latest

Restaurant Review: Hortus NYC

by Megan D'Souza June 9, 2022
written by Megan D'Souza

Welcome to Hortus NYC: a Michelin-recognized gem nestled in the heart of Nomad. A mature and sleek lobby greets you as you check in with the host, browse the menu stand, and are led upstairs to the intimate indoor seating balcony. Blending Asian fusion flavors and techniques with a modern American flair, Chef Lenny Moon has captured the hearts of new yorkers. We stopped by on Tuesday evening to sample some of their exciting new spring menu items, as well as some classic menu favorites. 

First up was the Royal Platter: lobster tails, jumbo shrimp cocktail, salmon crudo, and caviar-topped oysters arrived in a wooden bento box filled with ice. This delicious selection primed us perfectly for our meal with its fresh flavors and light fare. Our favorite of the platter were the oysters – some of the best we’ve had in the city. Next, our soju-based cocktails arrived. We ordered the Piña, a lime, mint, and pineapple based drink, and the Black Plum, which had a makgeolli and burnt orange flavor profile. The Piña is great for those wanting a light & sweet fruity sip, and the Black Plum is perfect for old-fashioned-lovers or those who prefer a less sweet, more boozy pairing to their meal. 

 

For appetizers, we ordered two Hortus fan-favorites – the Yuzu Bacon Rose Pasta and the King Crab Noodle. Both generous enough to be a main dish, each had such distinct flavors. The Yuzu Pasta, which the host described to us as a classic rigatoni vodka with a sweetness lent from the rose and a citrusy essence from the yuzu, was decadent and that savory-sweet goodness found in all my favorite dishes. The King Crab Noodle was also creamy and thick, but had notes of spices to it due to the mala, a Sichuan spice, in the sauce. Topped with crab meat, the seafood element did not overwhelm the pasta but added a tasteful fresh complement to the buttery sauce. 

The Ribeye and the Duck, a new spring menu item, were our mains of choice. The ribeye arrived with a miso chimichurri sauce, green beans, and crispy potatoes. The duck confit was my favorite item of the meal, cooked to perfect tender juiciness and surrounded by an orange hoisin sauce with quinoa salad and pickled beets. Finally, for dessert, we tried their Matcha Tiramisu and their Yuzu Panna Cotta. Where the Yuzu Pasta has a subtle hint of citrus, the panna cotta is packed with explosive citrusy flavor – each bite was mouth-puckeringly sour balanced with the rich, creamy panna cotta base, with a butter cookie crumble and raspberries on top. The Tiramisu was fluffy with a subtle sweetness and matcha flavor that contrasted the punch panna cotta perfectly.

After enjoying our food, we caught up with restaurant captain Sarah to learn a bit more about the vision behind Hortus: 

 

What’s the vision behind Hortus?

Sarah: Hortus stands for “garden” in Latin. We’re actually asian-fusion, we lean towards Korean, Chinese, Japanese, more on the asian side, but has a European twist which you can see on some of the dishes.

 

How are the seasonal menus selected?

Sarah: We’ve had 3 different chefs, all have been Korean. The first chef developed the menu to be a mix of Korean and Latin, the second chef was right before the pandemic, and our new chef, Lenny Moon, decides on the menu with the owner and manager. They change the menu 2-3 times per year, around summer and winter. 

 

What is your favorite dish from each course?

Sarah: Love the Kumamoto Oysters and Salmon Crudo. The King Crab Noodle is the top, definitely, and the Truffle Donabe with the Hangar steak is what we’re known for. It’s been on the menu for the past 4 years. My favorite dessert is the Matcha Tiramisu.

 

Any hidden gems on the menu you’d like guests to know about?

Sarah: The salad has an incredible dressing, and has papaya and mango. That’s definitely a hidden gem. I’d say for appetizers – the Prawns and Oysters, and for main, the Sea Urchin Donabe. People tend to be afraid of the raw sea urchin. The Yuzu Panna Cotta is definitely underrated for dessert, since people don’t know what panna cotta is, but it’s delicious.

 

Anything else you want people to know about Hortus?

Sarah: I want them to know we’re affordable, especially for being on 5th Avenue, and to give us a try!

 

Our 4-course meal was truly a delight, and we highly recommend booking a reservation at Hortus NYC as soon as you can to celebrate spring with their new menu!

June 9, 2022 0 comment
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Restaurant Review: The Old Stove Pub

by Sydney Hargrove May 10, 2022
written by Sydney Hargrove

As a resident of one of the greatest cities in the world, I’m always searching for the best possible places to go out to eat. It’s hard not to be a foodie in Manhattan, and trying out the upper east side’s newest spot, The Old Stove Pub, left nothing to be desired!

The Old Stove pub has a very popular location in the Hamptons, and just opened its doors in Manhattan a few days ago. The spot is known for its great charm, stellar steaks, fresh salads, and is owned by Southampton local Joseph DeCristofaro. Located in a prime spot on on East 59th street and first avenue, the pub has a beautiful interior with a lovely atmosphere. We checked it out on Tuesday, and it did not disappoint. They played wonderful music and the staff was incredibly friendly!

We were provided with delicious warm bread to start, and my friend and I both decided on the steak as our main course. The dish was so wonderfully seasoned and incredibly flavorful, it was truly the best steak i’ve had in the city thus far- a statement not to be made lightly! It was served with a crisp flavorful salad, the perfect addition to the meal, and a side of crispy fries. Each component of the meal complimented each other so well, creating a brilliant dining experience. The steak was cooked to perfection and full of delicious spices, it was everything you’d hope for a meal to be. For desert we enjoyed Baclava and a delicious strawberry tart, both were the ideal way to end such a delicious meal.

Overall, we absolutely loved the atmosphere and food at the Old Stove Pub, and we highly reccoemnd heading over there and trying it out for yourself! Make a reservation, check out the menu, or hear all about it here!

May 10, 2022 0 comment
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Tiny’s Cantina Is The Latest And Tastiest Edition To Flatbush

by Vinesh Vora May 12, 2021
written by Vinesh Vora

Bringing the taste of Puebla to Brooklyn

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May 12, 2021 0 comment
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Collective Governors Island Retreat Offers Foodie Delights at Three Peaks Outdoor Dining

by ElizaBeth Taylor August 26, 2020
written by ElizaBeth Taylor

If you are looking for the ultimate outdoor eating experience in New York City look no further than a trip over the water to Collective Governors Island. Their newly revamped outdoor restaurant Three Peaks gets top ratings across the board.

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August 26, 2020 0 comment
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On The Scene: Wagamama Grand Opening

by Besjana Rugovac February 28, 2020
written by Besjana Rugovac

Wednesday night, I found myself on 55th and 6th avenue, at the electrifying and grandiose opening of Wagamama’s newest location.

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February 28, 2020 0 comment
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On The Scene: Bibigo To Go Hosts Lunar New Year Celebration

by Samantha Bergeson January 24, 2020
written by Samantha Bergeson

The newly-opened Bibigo To Go pop up at The Concourse at 30 Rockefeller Center ushered in the Lunar New Year with an exclusive Mandu-making masterclass led by Chef Inui Cho. 

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January 24, 2020 0 comment
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Steak ‘N Lobster Makes Luxe Food Affordable in Chelsea

by Samantha Bergeson June 8, 2019
written by Samantha Bergeson

Manhattan residents rejoiced last month with the opening of Steak ‘N Lobster, the latest must-try restaurant in the Chelsea area. With sleek interiors and a full bar, Steak ‘N Lobster brings a fun atmosphere perfect for family dinners or weekend date nights.

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June 8, 2019 0 comment
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Exclusive: Famed Chef David Chang Talks New Netflix Show ‘Ugly Delicious’ [Video]

by Bageot Dia February 26, 2018
written by Bageot Dia

Ugly Delicious is the newest dish to hit the NETFLIX kitchen.

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February 26, 2018 0 comment
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