Here’s a brief look at Nick Graham Spring/Summer 2018, presented at NYFWM at Skylight Clarkson Square.
Nick Graham maintains a legacy of over-the-top drama at his Spring/Summer 2018 show, this year’s theme being “Atlantis,” the fantastical and questionably real territory now submerged underwater. Graham’s impression of this place is a posh one with perfectly tailored men in fantastic colors. It was somewhat of an unintentional advancement on artist Damien Hirst’s recent show at the Venice Biennale, which dealt directly with the immeasurable fantasy of what the underwater world might be like. Graham’s show was one of his most subdued- minimal baubles and bolt-ons for one, save for a plastic dolphin or two. One must wonder if this is Graham’s interpretation of couture…? Further research required.
Anyway and otherwise, it was excruciatingly charming: tight, well tailored trousers were rolled at the ankle, probably for wading through magical waters. Jackets came in both lined and unlined flavors, some striped for preppy JFK effect. Impossible to ignore was the massive crest of Graham on each jacket- and enormous jolly roger that felt as out of place in context of the otherwise luxurious-looking collection. Beyond this, the show was rife with artistic approaches to jackets, a mildly predictable fish net detail on a woman’s dress, a happy helping of bare, muscled skin, and I won’t even get into the tangle of LED lights attached to an otherwise soundly designed gown with a great train. The colors here tended toward flattering and bright: atmospheric and elegant periwinkle, foamy green, solid blue in a tempting hue, as well as a yellow stripes (Cher from Clueless, anyone?). Say what you will about Nick Graham, this is his most mature and contained collection yet. Except for the men donning flowered swimming caps. We’re as confused as you on that one.