Chinese food in America has never had a fair shake. It’s been relegated to conjure up the household names of General Tso’s and Orange Chicken, both of which are good but far from the truth of what Chinese cuisine can be.
However in a one-of-a-kind city like New York, you can be sure to find gems that are great tastes of the real deal. Chef-Owner Kenny Leung’s new endeavor with Thomas Tang of the acclaimed August Gatherings is looking to be one such place.
I tried the tasting menu out with my girlfriend who is is very familiar with Cantonese cuisine. The menu was inspired and meant to be an elevated Cantonese dining experience. Our meal started with an amuse bouche of a fried scallop from Hokkaido, which was crispy, tender, and wonderfully meaty. It was a great note that that would set the tone for the rest of the meal.
From there we moved on to the first course: A Shikoku Bamboo Shrimp Dumpling. This is a great dish and a very good shrimp dumpling but the wow factor comes from the presentation. The black skin is made from Shikoku bamboo. Each dumpling is crowned with black truffles. This is all nestled in a pool of golden chicken broth, the shimmer of which comes from gold itself.
Next we had the Gold Leaf Wrapped Abalone. While abalone is not something common to the American palate, it delivered a great taste. It’s crispy wonton shell added a perfect texture compliment to the scallop like abalone and the gold added a nice shiny touch.
The Alaskan King Crab Wensi Tofu Soup was a unique treat. Each bowl contained thousands of slices of tofu. This dish required precise knife skills to intricately julienne the tofu into fine and delicate threads, a feat not many can do. The broth, was simmered for hours with chicken and pork to enhances the rich flavor as well.
After that, we had the Grilled Angus Short Rib which was every bit as delicious as you would’ve expected. It was char-grilled and paired with a fruit sauce that offered a balance of savory and sweet notes. This was probably the most familiar taste on the menu.
During the meal, my girlfriend had mentioned how the food had conjured up memories of her grandma’s cooking, with the exception of a chicken and herbal soup. To show you how great the wait staff was, I am convinced they over heard us because they prepared a one-dish special for us: a herbal medicinal soup. It was equal parts tasty and healthy.
The last course was the Longevity Noodles with Fish Maw and this might’ve been my favorite. In Cantonese culinary tradition, fish maw is another crown jewel in addition to abalone. Fish maw is prized for its unique texture and abundance nutritious in Chinese culture. This dish features tender noodles bathed in a housemade abalone sauce along with octopus from Spain, mushrooms, and an assortment of flowers. That last point aside, it had a wonder floral taste.
For dessert we had a fuji apple sorbet topped with a fried mochi ball with sesame paste. The mochi ball was one of the best I’ve ever had with the right amount of sweet, but the fuji apple sorbet was the perfect palate cleanser and probably the best sorbet I’ve ever had. It was equal parts sweet, tart, and refreshing. Finally we had a one final sweet shaped to look like a pumpkin and filled with a syrupy pumpkin sauce inside. Honestly, this was the best dessert I’ve had in New York this year. For anyone who skimps on dessert, it would be criminal to do so here. Unlike many of desserts today, it was not overwhelmingly sugary.
I don’t think I need to say it but the food was fantastic. Everyone from the Chef down to the wait staff clearly cared about everything that went into the dining experience, from the food and plating down to the ambience. Honestly, the last time I experienced service this exquisite was at a two Michelin starred restaurant in Paris. I wouldn’t be surprised if folks from the Michelin guide paid them a visit sometime soon.
Lately the food scene in New York has started to feel sort of boring, which is largely down to me. However, if you’re looking for a unique, fine-dining experience in New York City, I’d recommend this one. Certainly worth a trip.
