Hussein Chalayan presented his Spring/Summer 18 collection at London Fashion Week on September 17.
“We live in an era where everyone is a curator, and entitlement – whether real or misplaced- begets confidence in one ’s own knowledge and opinions.”
Called, “Entitle” the theme of the collection focused on the overwhelming exchange of digital information in today’s culture and the feeling of despair it creates along with a neo sense of entitlement one can have.
Highlighting the sartorial element, garments revealed minimal skin with high necklines and long hems, mainly just leaving the arms exposed. Some models had a sheer veil draping down, covering their face with sunglasses on top conveying a sense of contemporary mystery. Many looks were embroidered with Swarovski crystals intricately hiding subliminal messages within the design to convey a deeper meaning of a re-defined image.
All the models wore a very simple brown sandal , some even with contrasting white socks, again, implementing the cultural sensitivity yet boldness Chalayan wanted to create. There was a swift fluidity in the way the models swayed around the criss cross catwalk. It appeared at any moment they would crash, just barely missing one another by a couple of steps, which metaphorically could stand for the sense of tension that can arise when ones personal space is invaded or society’s constant comparison to others.
Nonetheless, Chalayan’s avant-gardé designs proved to be consistent throughout and the show ultimately revealed a raw unfiltered reality.
We had a chance to talk to Thomas de Kluyver, MAC’s lead makeup artist for the show, where he explained the inspiration for the makeup looks.
“The collection has a slight oriental feel so for the makeup I tried to approach it in the same way. I was looking at a lot of Man Ray and old black and white photographs and I was trying to see how I can kind of update that in a more modern way to something that feels contemporary. I’m really into using makeup as a way to express yourself rather than to cover up. We’ve gotten into a place where it’s quite artificial beauty at the moment and I’d like to bring something more natural back. I love the idea of makeup looks that are universally flattering no matter what color skin tone you have or your eye shape so I’ve tried to approach makeup for Chalayan this season in the same way. We’re using Face & Body Foundation and a tiny bit of concealer, again leaving the skin very natural. I’d love to see people wearing less base, it would be nice. It shows personality and personality in the face and that’s exactly what we are doing for the models. It would be nice if everyone felt comfortable with all the little things. For concealer, we are using Select CoverUp and then no highlighting or contouring, very raw skin. I’m using Coffee Eye Pencil to do a sort of architectural eyebrow and we are using the same color on everyone which again touches on that idea that makeup can be universally flattering and can work for anyone.”