Jonathan Tolliver

I once played a show in Paris and was excited to try as much food as possible that day, but all I had time for was a chicken shack by my hotel. And while that chicken did slap, I knew I’d been cheated.

So when I heard Mr. T, with its Parisian outpost, French techniques and international street food was opening in LA, I knew I had to find my way there. I was not disappointed.

The space is industrial and trè chic, with exposed pipes and uncovered bulbs. It feels at once high end yet approachable.

All photos by Ron Clark

I started with a couple sensational drinks, as I do. First was the Mr. T, a sublime mezcal-based drink featuring fruity accoutrements; prickly pear, Cointreau, lime juice, agave and candied hibiscus. This is obviously their signature drink, and it was sensational, the mezcal a perfect smoky balance to the other sweet ingredients.

Next up was the Let Me Ride, the sweetest drink on the menu. It’s made with tequila, mango, lime juice, agave, and squirt with a mango purée tajin rim. I loved it, though it’s more of a summertime al fresco taste. I’d absolutely have it again.

The ‘Uni’ was my appetizer. It’s sea urchin topped with confit egg yolk and Koshihikari rice. It was subdued and incredibly fresh, a savory and buttery taste that was lighter than I expected.

The morning before I went to this dinner, my very sophisticated friend said ‘you can’t go wrong with steak frites,’ so I ordered it. I trust him with my life.

He was correct! I’ve always adored hanger steak, and this was a particularly choice offering. I ordered it medium rare, and it was succulent and juicy. I just involuntarily drooled thinking about it.

Despite that high praise, the dish of the night was the striped bass sabayon, an unbelievably delicious cut of fish that tasted so sophisticated and fresh I couldn’t help but fall head over heels.

The vandouvan crust was such a lovely touch, a welcome addition to both the texture and taste of the dish. Can’t stress it enough: I was blown away by this.

The poulet frit ‘cesar’ was decadent, a fried Cornish game hen slathered in hot honey. It was lovely and sinful, which is a wonderful combination.

Rounding out the night was apple pithiviers, a straightforward and gently-bombastic dessert. I had a great time with it, though after the heavier entrees, I should’ve chosen something a bit lighter.

Mr. T more than lives up to the hype. This developing corridor of Hollywood is lucky to have such a tremendous dining experience. I can’t recommend it enough.