Eight students from Academy of Art University School of Fashion debuted their thesis collections at New York Fashion Week at The Arc, Skylight at Moynihan Station on Friday, September 11.
The spring 2016 show marks the 10th anniversary of the School of Fashion’s first showing at New York Fashion Week.
“In the decade since our first presentation at New York Fashion Week, the show has gained momentum, growing in size and in the caliber of fashion professionals, designers, recruiters and media who attend,” says Academy President Elisa Stephens. “We are committed to helping our students launch their careers, and we are honored to give students a platform of this magnitude to present their work as fashion industry professionals.”
The School of Fashion first presented collections at New York Fashion Week in September 2005, showing annually from 2005 to 2007. To give more students the opportunity to show their collections in New York, in 2008 the School of Fashion expanded its presence by showing both spring and fall collections, a practice it has continued ever since.
“This season’s designers have created collections that are concentrated on minimalism, tending to the contour and structure of the garments,” says School of Fashion Executive Director Simon Ungless. “The designers have shifted their focus away from embellishment and on to the purity of the silhouette by the craft in which they shape and proportion the clothes. This type of constructive tailoring is an inventive way to appreciate the human figure, which elevates the nature and art of their designs.”
Max Lu and Jingci Wang, both MFA Fashion Design, collaborated on a line aimed to express ambiguous and unclear forms from a blurry dream. The collection features 1950’s classic and elegant silhouettes and new edge style. They focused on clear cuts and special shapes to create their designs using high quality fabrics and new material such as lame, metallic, leather and sequins. They used the hardness and softness of fabrics to bring the balance of harmony and express the vagueness and clearness of the dream.
The menswear collection from Ruone Yan, BFA Menswear Design, was fabricated from jersey, leather, and beige-toned canvas that she custom dyed with oolong tea. Of her inspiration, Yan tells us, “My inspiration is from the Cephalotus, also known as the Venus Flytrap. I wanted to capture the idea of the insects being trapped within the Cephalotus with my collection. Outside, the insects are vulnerable to other elements of danger even though they aren’t being slowly ingested. So, are the insects safe or in danger within the body of the plant?” Yan’s collection shows her inspiration with cocoon-like layers, and the monochromatic palette focuses attention on the innovative silhouettes.
Liz Li, MFA Fashion Design and MFA Knitwear Designer Bom Kim presented a collection that features 1940s-inspired A-line silhouettes, which “create volume, and make the collection sculpted and airy.” Linen and transparent fabrics enhance the collection’s summery feel; a color story inspired by the seasons roots the collection with a natural palette, which is set off by contrasting black details.
The menswear-inspired collection by Mehrzad Hemati, MFA Fashion Design, is constructed from cotton, silk charmeuse, duchess satin and organza with unique details in the collection, such as custom closures designed to look like piercings.
BFA Fashion Designer Livia Bianda’s lycra, mesh, pinstripe wool and pinstripe cotton graduation collection was inspired by the uniforms and exaggerated silhouettes seen on football players. What’s even cooler than Bianda’s mesh pullover t-shirts and two-layered pants are the built in backpacks and fanny packs that adorn of her garments.
Wenhan Yuan, MFA Fashion Design, presented her senior collection created with a variety of materials like cotton, suit fabrics and paper textured fabrics. The collection reflects the natural aspect of a woman’s life. Wenhan deliberately reflects a sensuous woman in men’s clothing. “My collection emphasizes showing fresh style, pure sex and emotion. The whole collection is based on a natural feel, which is more feminine and girly,” explained Yuan.
Photo Credit: Grayson Wilder
