On Tuesday, March 9, a new art installation quietly appeared along the Park Avenue Mall, just opposite The Armory. The piece, entitled Talisman: A Sacred Grove, is the latest vision of artist Michele Oka Doner, whose nature-inspired work has been celebrated for nearly five decades.
A first for the venerable Sotheby’s Auction House, Art as Jewelry as Art is a groundbreaking auction in more ways than one.
Expertly assembled by Sotheby’s Artist Jewelry Specialist and Head of Sale Tiffany Dubin, Art as Jewelry as Art focuses on an emerging class of increasingly in-demand works: precious and rare examples of experimentation and exploration by some of the world’s most celebrated artists. Dubin’s conceptually-forward understanding of art celebrates these artists as they explore new mediums, scales, materials, and application. Many of these unique pieces allow collectors to wear the art.
Rife with conceptual integrity and craftsmanship, there are some 150 thoughtfully chosen works of art in the sale, many of which can be worn as adornment or exhibited as part of a collection. Despite being made up of over a century of work, the intent of this sale is very modern, where today’s collectors are seeking more interactive, more unique, and more personal works of art.
For Ms. Dubin, “The focus of artists and their jewelry was on three elements: ensuring that it is limited or unique; that the piece is emblematic of the artist’s oeuvre; and that it is representative of the time during which it was made.”
Calder Hairband, courtesy Sotheby’s
Among the highlights are Alexander Calder’s coils of hammered metal- presented as headbands, broaches and bracelets- which feel as if they’re an electric current fizzling with energy. These works have a rich provenance; closely associated with the Guggenheim family and once worn by Jeanne Moreau.
Lalanne Orchidée (Orchid) Handbag courtesy Sotheby’s
Claude Lalanne’s expression of personal style was through decorative flora and fauna, and that is deeply apparent in these works of jewelry as art. High achievements here include a series of creations taking advantage of an orchid-influenced motif. According to the catalogue, “[Lalanne] conceptualized these bronze works as gilded fossils to be worn and appreciated into perpetuity”. A highlight is a bold and poetic handbag. In a similar vein, a work by Andrew Grima (a favorite designer of the United Kingdom Royal Family) offers a remarkably accurate execution of a leaf as a broach with a diamond representing a dew drop.
Michele Oka Doner’s Set of Two ‘Talisman’ Necklaces. Courtesy Sotheby’s.
As for contemporary artists, work is well-represented. Particularly special is Michele Oka Doner’s set of two “Talisman” necklaces, informed by her scholarly understanding and emotional connection to the primitive and abstract. At once a work of engineering and instinct, the layering of stones and wire creates a spiritually charged work.
Line Vautrin’s Carrousel’ (Carousel) Earrings. Courtesy Sotheby’s.
Many works are imbued with a charming grasp of humor and lightheartedness, including Line Vautrin’s Carrousel’ (Carousel) Earrings and Jean Lurçat’s ‘Le Cockerel’ Brooch.
Hubert Le Gall’s Set of a Obsidian Swallow Pendant and Jewelry Stand with Mirror. Courtesy of Sotheby’s.
There are plenty of other highly-conceptual and theatrical works that take advantage of the human form to explore and examine, from Cartier’s chains to Man Ray’s sensual ‘Les Amoureux’ lips. Others enjoy the theater and theory of vanity and humanity, from Hubert Le Gall’s pendant that comes with a jewelry stand with mirror to Yury Revich’s Eye Jewelry.
The Art as Jewelry as Art online sale continues until October 4th, 2022 at Sotheby’s. You can browse the lots and place your bids at www.sothebys.com