Three nights of Speedboat Bar’s Thai-Chinese-inspired menu arrives in SoHo, celebrating an eclectic cultural mix of Thailand ‘s Chinatown and New York City.
In the heart of SoHo, an invitation to experience Bangkok’s Chinatown in a vibrant dining setting awaits at The Manner Hotel located on Thompson Street. The Otter, the hotel’s interior restaurant, was transformed for the pop-up experience. The restaurant, traditionally a fresh seafood restaurant, is often referred to as a hidden gem of the neighborhood.
The culinary pop-up turns the acclaimed London-based Speedboat Bar into a bustling New York-style weeknight dinner outing. The collaboration bridges flavorful Thai-Chinese cooking from Chef & Founder Luke Farrell’s Chaiyo Restaurants, in partnership with JKS Restaurants, with the boutique hotel’s romantic ambience.
(Courtesy Speedboat Bar)
The Bangkok-styled takeover created an oasis beyond the carefully curated menu. Fueled by Thai hyperpop tunes and energetic conversation, the atmosphere felt warm and inviting upon entering. The guests’ environment mirrored the collaborative menu: exciting, zesty, and full of personality.
Neon signs, minimalist Thai artwork, and speedboat décor cover the walls, adding detailed touches of color everywhere you look. Warm, amber light illuminates couples and larger parties seated in booths or high-top tables, many of them out past nine or ten on a midweek evening to try the cuisine.
Speedboat’s “Yaowarat Road” menu doesn’t fall short of signature Thai-Chinese fused dishes, or spices, for that matter. Blending savory crunch and fiery flavor, the appetizer included chicken served in contrasting preparations. The chicken and lemongrass salad with rice arrived with chicken skins and zaep seasoning, pairing perfectly with my personal favorite drink, Cha Som Jeed. The non-alcoholic Thai iced tea, which is semi-sweet with hints of calamansi and lime, complements the first couple of dishes’ spice and salt with a refreshingly fruity balance.
Also debuting on the New York menu were main dishes: minced beef with holy basil, crispy pork and black pepper curry, and stir-fried morning glory, known in Thailand as Pak Bung Fai Daeing. Pouring the black pepper curry over warm jasmine rice quickly became my favorite flavor combination. The spice level, though bold and powerful, didn’t take away from the seasoning and textures of each dish.
(Courtesy Speedboat Bar)
As the meal continued, after a slice of sweet pineapple pie with vanilla ice cream for dessert, the restaurant and noise level grew noticebly louder after 10 p.m. Between the short-term downtown location surrounded by New Yorkers in the foodie, dating, and influencer scene, it wasn’t surprising the seats were filled. Even on a Thursday night, the atmosphere felt more like the weekend, with an infectious energy that made it tempting to continue the night out in SoHo.
Especially for those of us who dream of visiting Thailand one day, the Speedboat Bar dining experience made us feel, with our eyes closed, that we were already there.
