Jonathan Tolliver

I hope y’all are ready for a double-feature of ‘Marlou and Me,’ because my time at this sensational downtown restaurant was nothing short of cinematic. Chefs Marcos and Louis have built an eatery that’s at once inventive and unpretentious, with beautifully-presented, upscale offerings that taste familiar and piquant. 

It’s obvious why their star is on the rise. The chefs, who also helm the adjacent Burrow Bar and Kitchen, have an incredibly-fine pedigree, which recently includes Marcos’ turn as a celebrity cuisinier on Bravo’s Below Deck Sailing Yacht, and Louis’ lauded time at the helm of Taste on Melrose. 

All Photos by Ron Clark

The tuna tartare was a smash; it was incredibly flavorful and gently briny with extra kick brought out by soy citronette dressing. I tend to think of tartare as a bit of an afterthought, an amuse bouche to the bigger, meatier items I’m sure to order, but this dish stayed with me long after the check. 

The gnocchi bone marrow was another success. This was the most down-home of the dishes I tried; the familiar taste of gnocchi with the added texture of bone marrow and delicious pickled onions. I appreciate the chefs side-stepping the oft-added portobello mushroom, as they’re my lifelong nemesis. This would be the most-popular dish at the cookout, which is where I live, palette-wise. 

It’s not hard for me to guess the most-popular menu item at this place – though hell, maybe I’m wrong. From where I sit, the kimchi seafood paella is Marlou’s heavy-hitter, and endlessly pleasing dish that diners are familiar with, but with the flair you’d expect from two chefs who pride themselves on personality. 

Their personal touch appears in two ways: first, the presentation of this dish is to die for. It looks absolutely incredible, a succulent swirl of oranges and greens, as if someone turned the saturation up on standard kimchi. You can’t wait to dig in. Their was also clearly care put into how a diner might approach this plate, with clams lining the plate, inviting you to the softer textures at the center of the dish. 

Second, the calamari, shrimp and pork belly are cooked in such a way that adds heartiness to an offering that can, in less capable hands, leave a diner wanting more. It was delectably seasoned and presented with gusto, both in the portion and in the more fibrous tasting texture of the meat. I would recommend this ten times out of ten. 

Lastly, the octopus was another filling and forthright dish, with gochujang aioli and sweet and spicy sauce adding a hint of heat, while letting the tasty tendril do most of the heavy lifting, flavor-wise. 

Compliments to our bartender Kendra, who served expertly-made cocktails and hilarious conversation. Her signature concoction, Fade to Red, is officially coming to the menu soon, and you’d be wise to try it. It slaps, gang. 

Marlou is a jewel of LA’s highly-competitive downtown food scene, and I’m grateful to see great new ideas in a restaurant space that needed boldness. In my time downtown I’ve seen a few places take over the space, but none nearly of this restaurant’s caliber. Kudos to all.