As autumn sweeps into the bustling heart of New York City, the chill and rain of the last week led a friend and I to an enchanting establishment that transports diners to the serenity of the Hamptons amidst the Flatiron district’s urban buzz.
Sagaponack, a sanctuary from the hustle and bustle of the city, boasts a bi-level, contemporary design infused with a Hamptons ambiance. It evokes the essence of coastal living with its exquisite blue and white ocean-inspired motifs, elegantly weathered grey oak floors, and a maritime décor that whispers of the Long Island Sound.
Yet, Sagaponack is not content to simply mimic its coastal origins. Under the stewardship of owner Kyung il Lee, and the culinary artistry of Chef Phil Choy (formerly at Dovetail and Boulud Sud) the menu undergoes a metamorphosis. Here, classic seafood offerings come hand-in-hand with inspired culinary creations, fusing New American ingenuity with Pacific Rim allure and Mediterranean panache.
Our culinary experience began with a trio of dressed oysters: the Cucumber, adorned with yuzu kosho and dill; the Chili, adorned with a lively trifecta of Fresno, serrano, and shallot; and the Caviar, an opulent dish with Adamas Siberian caviar atop a velvety buttermilk and yogurt foundation. We also savored Roasted oysters like Brown Butter with shoyu koji, lemon, and tempura flakes, and Gochujang Butter topped with serrano, sesame breadcrumbs, and scallion. The raw bar also features a selection hailing from Island Creek oysters sourced from Duxbury, Massachusetts and Kusshi oysters from Humbolt Bay, California.
Our culinary journey continued with a remarkable Fluke Tartare, crowned with coconut, marcona almonds, and tobiko, and drizzled with a cucumber, cilantro oil, chili oil, and lime sauce. An Asian-inspired Calamari dish seasoned with guindilla, parsley, and Calabrian chili aioli added a delightful twist.
For heartier fare, we delighted in house-made Ricotta Cavatelli paired generously with peekytoe crab, sunchokes, and Meyer lemon. You could even elevate it further with a sprinkle of that same Adamas Siberian caviar from the impeccable dressed oysters. The Shoyu Salmon arrived with jeweled rice, shoyu butter, and oyster mushrooms, but the ‘Nduja Mussels truly stole the spotlight with their Eastern mussels, bathed in a rich sauce infused with pork sausage, guajillo, and Calabrian chili. The sauce was so good we couldn’t resist dipping our bread.
We concluded our meal with a luscious Thai Milk Cake featuring mango, pecan, and cinnamon. However, Sagaponack’s concise yet delicious dessert menu also boasts a Crème Brûlée infused with earl grey and mint, crowned with a strawberry flourish.
One dish that left a lasting impression was the Gambas al Ajillo — succulent shrimp coated in a simple yet divine sauce crafted from shrimp oil, pimento, and preserved lemon. Absolute harmony. As the weather turns cooler, my mind lingered on the idea of returning to Sagaponack on a late weekend afternoon, maybe this November, and finishing a busy day in Manhattan with a glass of white wine and these shrimp.
On the note of drinks, the beverage selection at Sagaponack offers a rotating array of international wines, an extensive selection of beers encompassing IPAs, lagers, ciders, and locally sourced pilsners from Montauk, and an evolving list of craft cocktails. We savored the Harana, a balanced blend of gin, ginger, cucumber, lime, Thai chili, and tonic. Accompanying it was the Summer’s Gold, a harmonious blend of bourbon, l’orgeat, honey, and lemon—a fitting crescendo that we think aptly capped off a great summer.
For those yearning for the hot summer sun and the cooling breeze of the Atlantic, Sagaponack serves as a reminder that the pleasures of dining and sharing moments with friends endure year-round, no matter if one finds themselves on the shores of Long Island or within the heart of Flatiron.
