Restaurant Review: WANO

A rare gem in Midtown East, WANO impressed us last Wednesday with their Kaiseki tasting menu. From their shaved truffle topped dishes and bright Japandi interior, WANO sets the perfect scene for a culinary adventure. 

Chef Ryota Sakaba and Tokyo Restaurants Factory partnered to create a new Japanese tasting menu-style restaurant in MIFUNE’s old space. Tokyo Restaurants Factory is known for a number of impressive restaurants throughout Japan, Taiwan, and NYC, including Sushi Amane. Chef Sakaba was enchanted by the power of food by his family’s restaurant growing up, and has delighted palates at Xen Atagon Green Hills in Tokyo and Harada Restaurant in Akasaka. A notable feature of his culinary talents is his vegetable expertise, which plays a key role in the menu at WANO. 

Their Kaseki, Japanese for multi-course dinner, started off with the Steamed Chawanmushi with Black Truffle. This custardy egg dish was subtly flavored, and the texture and flavor of the freshly shaved truffles warmed our bodies as we settled in for our meal at WANO on a cold late Autumn night. Next, WANO presented a beautiful course of Fried Oysters with Finger Lime in a half shell. The Kumamoto oysters were battered in tempura, then topped with micro herbs and fingerling limes. The tart shock of the lime pearls perfectly complemented the indulgent yet light tempura oysters, and highlighted the familiar briney flavor of the oysters while introducing a new component with the acidity of the limes.

The Akami and Madai Sashimi course that followed was some of the most buttery fish I’ve ever tasted, complemented by tobiko and ebi toppings – any sushi lover’s dream. After that, they brought a unique dish: Abalone with Uni & Kaluga Caviar Japanese Bonito Vinegar Gelee. The abalone is steamed in sake for an hour and topped with a luxurious helping of creamy uni, caviar, and a mouth-watering yuzu vinegar gelee. The puckering deliciousness of the uni and gelee are given texture and substance by the tougher abalone meat, which is a must try if you’ve never had the chance to taste it. 

Now for the main courses: the Miso Cod with Black Garlic, Japanese A5 Wagyu with Bordelaise Sauce, and the Mushroom and Ikura Clay Pot. The miso-marinated cod Nobu is famous for is taken to the next level at WANO with black garlic, a fermented piece of umami magic. The creamy black garlic paired with a bite of the perfectly cooked and seasoned miso cod and topped with fried onions, is now the only way I ever want to consume fish. Black cod, also known as sablefish, is a flaky and tender variety of fish that shines with the flavors WANO prepares it with. A5 wagyu is always something to get excited about, and the way WANO serves it extra rare with a surprising bordelaise sauce, fresh radish, and  sweet potato chips is undeniably scrumptious. The last main course reads as a Japanese style fried rice, with enoki mushrooms, ikura roe, and more shaved truffle. It was inspired by festival dish from Chef Sakaba’s childhood. 

Our dessert of Ice Cream with Passion Fruit was delectable: mango sorbet is topped with tart greek yogurt and juicy passion fruit, which satisfies a sweet tooth but remains fresh and fruity to finish off a complex meal. 

In addition to their Kaseki tasting menu, WANO serves a 10 and 15-course sashimi menu at their chef’s counter, and seasonal lunch menus if you’re lucky enough to work near their location in Midtown East. Read more about WANO’s extensive Japanese menu and book your reservation at their website!