Designer John Pack brought BICOASTAL COLLECTION’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, The Impossible Dream, to New York Fashion Week with an intimate Chelsea presentation that translated his years of custom craftsmanship into a ready-to-wear vision rooted in personal style, subtle detail, and what he calls “luxury sport.”
Presented September 15 at Alessandro Berni Gallery, the show represented a significant shift for Pack, who built his practice designing one-of-one pieces for private clients before expanding BICOASTAL COLLECTION into ready-to-wear. That change also gave him greater freedom to design from his own perspective rather than interpret someone else’s request.
“With custom work, it isn’t coming from me,” Pack explained after the presentation. Ready-to-wear, he said, is different because “it’s coming from my inspiration,” including “things that I like and things that I want to do.”
A model showcases John Pack’s approach to bold color, proportion, and subtle disruption during BICOASTAL COLLECTION’s The Impossible Dream SS27 presentation. (Photo: Britt Carpenter)
That point of view came through in a collection that moved between sportswear references, graphic treatments, relaxed tailoring, and more elevated silhouettes. One blue-and-black look paired exaggerated sleeves and bold geometric blocks with a streamlined mini, capturing the tension between athletic familiarity and fashion-forward construction that defines Pack’s evolving “luxury sport” vocabulary.
Elsewhere, jersey-inspired pieces and loose trousers pushed that idea further, balancing ease with deliberate styling. Pack described his approach as one of “quiet disruption,” less interested in spectacle for spectacle’s sake than in the choices revealed upon closer inspection.
Sportswear references meet relaxed tailoring in a look from BICOASTAL COLLECTION’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, The Impossible Dream. (Photo: Britt Carpenter)
“Subtle details,” he said when asked how that disruption manifests. “I’m really into detail. So I think it’s in the eye of the beholder.”
The collection’s emphasis on detail reflects Pack’s unconventional path into design. Raised in Trenton, New Jersey, he initially pursued filmmaking before moving into styling and eventually teaching himself to sew by reverse-engineering garments. That hands-on education continues to shape a process grounded in fabric, construction, and intuition.
A BICOASTAL COLLECTION logo tee is styled with a black skirt, sunglasses, statement accessories, and heels for The Impossible Dream SS27 presentation. (Photo: Britt Carpenter)
Creative direction and production by Mykel C. Smith Creative helped frame the clothes within an intimate Fashion Week setting, with styling partners spanning footwear, jewelry, eyewear, and leather. The final looks underscored BICOASTAL’s ability to move between casual and polished codes, including a logo tee styled with a long black skirt, chain belt, sunglasses, and heels.
For Pack, The Impossible Dream felt less like a conclusion than an arrival point in a longer evolution. By moving from designing for individual clients to defining a broader ready-to-wear language of his own, BICOASTAL COLLECTION used its New York Fashion Week moment to make one thing clear: Pack is no longer simply responding to someone else’s vision. He is building his own.
