Standing at the outdoor waterside terrace, I close my eyes. My mind, still searching for the sensory overload that comes with a city like NYC, soon learns to shut out which it constantly hears, and slows down.
With my face in the breeze, I finally feel it. The slow crackle of wave hitting stone, the caw of an ocean bird, the soft hum of townsfolk, chattering amongst themselves.
For just a moment, I am transported to Greece, and I can almost taste the Mediterranean air. I smell the authentic cuisine, the pucker of lemon, the fiery smoke of well-done, and the zest of garlic and chickpea: surely I cannot imagine this as well? No, of course not. I open my eyes and walk into Psaraki.
I’m immediately enamored by the sheer simplicity and authenticity that’s presented: zero pretension and a lack of the ostentations and frills that other restaurants use to spin the narrative that their exorbitant prices are worth it. Instead, I’m greeted by a setup that makes me feel instantly at ease; round tables illuminated by a burning candle, a rustic bar with the finest selections in wine and drink, and a wide opening in the wall that displays breathtaking views of Manhattan and the bridges that connect it to where this restaurant resides, Brooklyn.
The view
Views of the Aegean Sea would have been nice, but this will do.
I am introduced to the creator of this little Greek haven, James Paloumbis. Instantly personable and charismatic, he laughs with a twinkle in his eye as he animatedly explains the dishes and recommends several. I am impressed by his knowledge of his menu and his heritage, and it is clear that he adores every aspect of Greek cooking. He utters the names of dishes and ingredients as if he created them, and the passion he possesses is extraordinary. I am vegetarian, and I understand that this would be a difficult accommodation to make considering that we are in a seafood restaurant. However, he takes the challenge in stride and suggests several dishes that fit my criteria. I’m impressed. My guest can enjoy the full menu, and James is happy to suggest some stellar plates. With a delicate yogurt cocktail in hand, I eagerly await my food.
As I converse with my partner, I mentally reflect on the heritage and nuance Psaraki, whose name means “little fish”, brings to NYC. The decor, the dishes, and the ambiance are all reminiscent of a time without screens, a time where meeting with someone meant you were hearing and seeing them for the first time in months, and where dinner, dance, and conversation went on long through the night.
Yogo cocktail
I’m thinking about the seaside taverns in Greece that were coated with a lick of salty sea spray, the homemade delicacies made by the same chef for thirty years. There was a certain communion and respect for the culture that brought these people together from all walks of life, and I realize that this is the vision that James is trying to embody in his restaurant. Not a business opportunity, but a transfer of feeling, of experience and soul; where he can rest assured that if his patron receives just ten percent of the depth of culture, history, and knowledge he is bringing to the table, he will have done his job.
The food arrives, and as expected, it is delicious. We get started with several Greek spreads, an assortment that demonstrated the sheer variety of the country’s offerings.
Decadent pita
These included creamy tzatziki, Tamara (which was derived from caviar and I was unable to try unfortunately), a delicious spicy feta, and a succulent hummus araka, made of green beans. These were all complimented by toasty pieces of pita that were soft but just rigid enough to make scooping up the spreads easy. Next, we received a Dacos Cheesecake, which I immediately believed to be my personal favorite out of the things we tried so far, simply because of its originality and ambition; I had never tasted anything like this before. It is unlike a traditional cheesecake; rather, this one is savory, and composed of a whipped feta that melts in the mouth. The top is layered with tomatoes and barley rusks that give it a crunch, and the underside is supplemented with capers and oregano. The dish is wonderful, and its lightness means I can keep eating it without it feeling overly heavy or tiring.
After these starters, I was ready to be impressed with the main dishes, and boy did I not have to wait for long. Right from the get-go, my jaw drops as James brings out a Saganaki, flambéed right beside the table with fresh lemon.
Cheesecake
Comprised of kasseri cheese, it is coated with sweet honey, and the heat makes it fall apart easily in the mouth and melt into a swirling mix of salty and tart. Once I taste this dish, my ravings of the cheesecake disappear from my mind, and I am sure it cannot get much better than this. My partner receives a plate called Spanakopita, which is a deep-fried spinach and feta pie with fish. It looks amazing, and according to her, it tastes just as good.
Finally, we reach the crowning dishes, which James brings out with special pride.
Lobster pasta
My partner feasts on lobster pasta, cooked with a whole red lobster placed atop the noodles, and I enjoy a vegetable moussaka, made of layers of eggplant, béchamel, zucchini, potato, cheese, and tomato purée. It is simply heavenly and gives a certain earthy, organic flavor that is unmatched. By the end of this meal, I am simply floored by the sheer breadth of flavors and ingredients and sauces and sides and drinks. I am especially relieved when I realize that James was telling the truth; although I am vegetarian, I do not feel like I missed out on the experience at all, and this is a testament to the variety and inclusivity of Greek cuisine, especially at Psaraki.
It is not often that one encounters a location that challenges the senses in such a way and embarks on the pursuit of the new.
Dessert is served
With a wholesome staff, an incredible assortment of dishes, and an unmatched ambiance and view, Psaraki strives to set itself apart from others that are similar, but it does so based on principle; it chooses simplicity, authenticity, and culture that takes each patron to Greece with every bite. I applaud James for curating such a specialized menu and keeping his traditions alive, and I am eager to return to Psaraki, hungry for more. I urge all to do the same.
Psaraki opened its doors in 2024 and is located on the Brooklyn waterfront in the shadow of the Williamsburg Bridge.
