The Knockturnal got a sneak peek into the backstage beauty this NYFW at Ulla Johnson‘s Spring 2016 presentation. We spoke with the head make-up, nails and hair stylists to find out exactly how they achieved the perfect looks to accompany Johnson’s Boho-chic collection. This season’s collection shared a blend of Navajo, vintage and a Victorian element that culminated in a delicate and modern Americana style, one that is a signature of Johnson’s. You can get the look at home with hair, make-up and nails that compliment the unique Bohemian-goddess look.
Head Make-up Artist Troy Surratt, who recently won Beauty Innovator of the Year from Refinery 29, created an elegant and effortless look to accompany Ulla Johnson’s spring 2016 collection utilizing products from his make-up line Surratt Beauty.
What inspired this look today?
Troy Surratt: The inspiration for the look was really just clean, effortless, glowing skin with a little bit of a rosy glow. We used a liquid blush product that’s in development. We have a prototype of it so we use a rosy liquid blush. The lips are just moistened with a little bit of oil, actually a squalene. And then the eyelids are glowing with an eye shadow from my collection called “Soie” which is just kind of a silky- gives eyelids a silky luminous glint, kind of just like a sheen on the lids that brightens the eye. And then we brushed up brows and I applied a little bit of sort of iridescent glitter eyeliner across the lash line and dabbed it into the tear ducts of the eyes to just give sort of a twinkling starry eyed effect.
How did the clothing influence the look?
TS: I think that the clothes are so easy and organic and effortless in their style so speaking with Ulla we wanted the beauty to be the same way. Sort of effortless and easy and there is sort of that twinkle in the eye. So yeah, just ease and effortless beauty. Enhanced but not overly made up in any way, not too gilded or polished or ladylike.
How can girls get this look at home?
TS: It’s really easy. I mean the skin is so minimal. It’s the moisturizing with the whey skin milk actually it’s a fluid that just makes the skin look really, really luminous. And then we covered any visible spots on the skin and used a little bit of foundation or concealer only where needed so usually redness on the face occurs around the nose, on the tip of the nose, the tip of the chin. So we just evened out any areas that were discolored or red on the face and then covered any pimples. And I always cover pimples with a small concealer brush and sort of apply the concealer in every which direction so I do sort of a hatching with the concealer on the pimple because the pimple becomes rather textured so I sort of will do it left to right and then up and down and I really sort of work the skin- the thing that I’m concealing- from every direction in a sort of cross-hatching kind of motion if that makes sense. And it gets the pigment deposited into all of the texture, all of the nooks and crannies. And then I usually will bounce a beauty blender over it and then I will also blend the perimeter into the surrounding skin so there’s no highlighting of the blemish. And then moist lips with no color. The squalene is just used as a lip oil to moisturize and make the lips look moist but not shiny. And then just a little bit of light reflection on the eyes to brighten the eyes and brushed up the brows using a bit of brow palm aid. It’s really easy to get at home.
I use perfect match which is a beautiful dusty rose color by Morgan Taylor and we followed it up with “Matte’s a Wrap” which gives it a matte finish, almost like a clay nail and it was wonderful to work with Ulla because her colors are always like this beach earth goddess with beautiful mauves and accrues, ivory colors, and what this does is the color kind of matches a collection something subdued but still very prevalent on the nail and you’ll see some fringes, a lot of Aztec, very 70s. She’s always in the 70s bringing it up to date fashion into 2016. Now this clay color is so versatile. If you put a gloss over to make it last it gives such a dimension to it, a shine to it. More of a nude- I still classify this as a nude color because once you put it on the nail it really does go with what you’re wearing, you have purple, it would go, go with brown, what I’m wearing. It really is more of an updated nude and this is from the Spring Garden collection from Morgan Taylor which comes out in the spring.
Perfect Match is a part of Morgan Taylor Lacquer’s core collection of colors, available year-round on www.morgantaylorlacquer.com for $8.50 each.
Can you talk about how people can get this look at home?
Yeah so basically very easy. We did one coat on the nail because it’s a generous coat. What’s great about Morgan Taylor colors is the color saturation. You apply the color once, you don’t have to apply three or four layers to get the color that you want out of the bottle and you put this on one coat, wipe the edge and then you add the clear color. If you want a gloss you can add a top coat with the gloss coat or you can do a matte finish.
Cutler/Reden Salons did the Hair:
Can you talk about the inspiration for the look today?
So the inspiration for the collection is inspired somewhat Navajo, somewhat Aztec but overall bohemian girl. So they definitely wanted undone hair with a little bit of a wave so we kind of went more natural look, middle part, wave to it, messy a little undone, just cool.
What products did you use to get the look?
First we blow dried the Guts 10 all over their hair and after that we used the windblown hairspray to give it more and more texture. We build product onto the hair to give it enough texture to have that cool undone feel. To finish it we use the hairspray 23.
How can people get this look at home?
There’s different ways to get it at home. The way I did it was with a flat iron you get vertical sections of your hair and you do like an “S” formation with the flat iron because we don’t want volume with the wave we want a wave. Like a natural wave so we kind of use the flatiron to get that natural kind of “S” wave. And you do like vertical sections all over and it doesn’t have to be even it doesn’t have to be parted with a comb you can do it with your fingers. It just makes it look cooler, more natural.