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On February 11th, the Global Fashion Collective featured designs from Baby, The Stars Shine Bright, a Japanese clothing brand created by Akinori Isobe and Fumiyo in 1988.
Baby, The Stars Shine Bright was one of the early purveyors of Loilta fashion, a style popular in Japan that draws inspiration from the Victorian and Rococo era. It’s important to note that the Western connotation of “Lolita” is quite different from Lolita in the context of Lolita fashion. In the years since Vladmir Nabokov’s controversial novel Lolita was published in 1955, the term Lolita has developed an increasingly negative connotation in the Western world due to the novel and subsequent film adaptations’ strong associations with pedophilia, sexual abuse, grooming, and rape. However, the term “Lolita” in Japan is more closely associated with youth, femininity, and innocence rather than sexual attractiveness. Some Lolitas in Japan view the youth of Lolita fashion as an expression of protest against the responsibilities of traditional gender roles.
This collection was inspired by Usakumya-chan, the brand’s teddy bear mascot. Each dress was incredibly intricately detailed, and featured voluptuous, structured skirts. Most dresses were mini dresses and paired with thigh high socks in striped or whimsical matching patterns
Many featured layers of lace ruffles that evoked the idea of an intricately piped cake.
The callback to Alice in Wonderland, a very common Lolita inspiration, was very clear in multiple signature pastel blue dresses. Several dresses also appeared to draw inspiration from the Queen of hearts, featuring deep red hues and heart embellishments framed in lace.
The overall runway also evoked a bridal motif, adorned with chiffon, pastel roses, and flower petals. Some of the dresses were all white and constructed with variations of silk and lace, but overall evoked more of flower girl than bride due to the A-Line and babydoll silhouettes.
Usakumya-chan also featured prominently, as many models walked the runway holding the fluffy white bear-in-rabbit-ears. Some dresses were paired with rabbit ear accessories, bonnets, or crowns.
Baby, The Stars Shine Bright’s NYFW showcase also attracted dedicated Lolitas, as many attendees wore outfits inspired by the brand. The show was a fascinating look at Lolita fashion and offered a rare insight into the brand’s trajectory and influence in Japan.
On February 9, the Global Fashion Collective showcased four diverse designers that brightened the stark white walls of the Chelsea Industrial.
The show started with Lenifro, a Spanish brand created by Helen Lopez. The showcase featured the new ‘Retro Dreamer’ line, inspired by Helen’s son, Dream, and the 80’s era. The entire collection was created from recycled water bottles. Many pieces featured bright neon colors and bold prints. Lenifro also featured a mix of baggy silhouettes with shorter skirts and prominently structured shoulders.
One of the standout pieces was an ankle length black and white checked coat, with a dispersed bold red and blue pattern.
The next designs were from ‘Eternal Threads’, a collection from Rea by Rhea, created by Rhea Singh. Rhea has lived in Poland, India, Singapore, and the United States and strives to preserve the rich history of textiles in India through her designs. She draws inspiration from old Indian and Mughal architecture, and her color schemes are inspired by ancient Indian art. Her designs simultaneously push the boundary of modernity. Many pieces featured pointed, heavily structured, armor-inspired sleeve structures. The contrast between sharp edges and flowy skirts was pleasantly balanced and intriguing, and showcased how dynamic Rhea is as a designer.
Wirt Li’s first collection for Studio L7 came next. This monochromatic collection featured menswear inspired pieces with bold necklines and color blocking. The pieces daringly redefined the concept of a suit and incorporated traditionally feminine ruffles and skirts.
The final designer, R-Infection, showcased ‘The Land Resound’, a collection inspired by elements of the natural world. All of the pieces featured relaxed and approachable casual silhouettes. The color palettes of shades of brown earth tones and blue and green jewel tones evoked the calmness and familiarity of trees, roots, and branches.
This show presented by Global Fashion Collective was a feast for the eyes and shed much deserved light on four vastly diverse and scintillating up and coming designers.