Classy K-Town eatery Concerto is a beloved staple in the epicenter of LA’s culinary culture, doling out beautifully presented European x Korean fare in the shadows of towering high rises.
So when they brought in renowned Michelin Star chef Terry Kim to rejigger their menu, we had to come through.
What an experience.
The tuna tartar was a perfectly piquant opener. It’s an Asian marinade tuna topped with thinly diced Granny Smith apples, with a flavor that sort of permeates your mouth, gliding over the tongue, the soft palate, and the tonsils. It’s cool and light and delectable.
Next was a heavenly tomato salad, cherry tomatoes covered with a smoky persimmon dressing, sidled by an absolutely divine olive crumble.
Maybe I’m pedestrian – no maybe about it – but I’ve never seen a tomato salad so imaginative and so picturesque. The tomato sorbet was the figurative cherry on top, a flavorful dash of fun even tomato haters will adore.
The basil shrimp ravioli was shockingly savory, a powerful bite in a relatively small portion. The crab sauce is the star here, the ravioli bathing in it, soaking up the sort of salty punch of the crab. Stopped me in my tracks.
Never have I had a duck breast quite like this. The mildly gamey bird was perfectly cooked and flanked by an all-star supporting cast of raisin and braised red cabbage.
The raisin added such mature sweetness, the old savory and sweet combo working wonders here. The braised red cabbage sort of sobered the dish, adding a crunchier texture and a nice balance to the bold, brash raisin.
Tenderloin steak headlined the evening, a medium-rare bite of thick, peppery meat that’s treated rather gently. It’s lightly seasoned, the boldness of the dish couched in succulent mashed potatoes and tasty fried quinoa. Yes you read that right: fried quinoa.
That pronounced crunch will stay with me for days. It was pure joy sprinkling them on the steak, mixing them into the mash. Nothing like having fun with your food.
The Kimchi dumpling was spicy and smoky, a strong choice paired with the hunky steak.
Do yourself a favor and reserve a table. This was a flavor symphony at the tucked away Concerto.
