Each year for New York Fashion Week seven emerging designers are chosen to compete in the Supima Design Competition creating capsule collections using donated cottons.
Their challenge is to rethink the conventions of different types of cotton fabrics. This year, which marks the competition’s 11th anniversary, students hailing from the nation’s leading design schools were asked to create an array of woman’s evening wear, which were showcased in a runway show on the opening day of NYFW.
Alanna Lizun
Transforming the cotton by weaving structural elements into the fabric, Alanna Lizun from Kent State University used bright hues of red, orange and deep blues in her designs. Intricate pleats and ruching dropped over form-fitting skirts, short dresses and deconstructed jackets were a perfect pairing down the runway.
Bryn Lourié
Bryn Lourié from Kent State University used this season to show off her versatility. The collection went from ready to wear sporty pieces of blue and white fabrics, high waisted pants and structured criss-cross tops, through to delicately woven dresses that form-fittingly hugged the models. Lourié says she designs for “soft, strong beautiful women” which is her influence behind the current collection.
Genevieve Lake
Paper dolls and our culture’s social media obsession was the driving force behind the offering of Genevieve Lake from Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising. Lake wanted the audience to see her designs from different angles, which would change their view of the clothing. “It is just like someone creating an online identity through social media or having two different lives – one online and one in real life,” said Lake. Her social commentary is achieved through extreme asymmetric lines, with each piece look slightly different front to back.
Jessica Chang
Taking a safer approach was Jessica Chang of Parsons School of Design. Her garments were a mixture of pale blues and mild oranges, with soft pleating adding an effect of romantic storytelling and bold architecture. Her pieces were on the safer side, with a strong ready to wear collection you could take right off the runway.
Jessica Rubinstein
Jessica Rubinstein from Savannah College of Art and Design dove into the future with her visionary designs, wowing the audience with fitted tops cascading into deconstructed, yet delicate, bottoms. The structural elements were pleasing to the eye and she added a touch of bling to each design. Her collection was mostly blue, white and black with a hint of silver to create a sophisticated flair.
Paula Amaral
Paula Amaral of Academy of Art University stuck to a mostly monochromatic color palette, which enhanced her beautifully constructed collection. The pieces all had elegant asymmetries, delicate ruching or choice cuts. Amaral describes her collection as a “transition between two worlds.” The monochromes allowed room for the contrasts between movements and color to shine through.
Lili Shi
The winner of the competition was Lili Shi of the Fashion Institute of Technology. Pushing the limitations of the cotton was the goal of this collection. “I am not afraid of a challenge,” says Shi, and this is echoed in her bright, futuristic designs. Shi, who was selected by a panel of industry judges, received a check for $10,000 towards her next fashion move. She was also guaranteed a place to showcase at Paris Fashion Week later this month.
Once again, the lights have dimmed on New York Fashion Week, but these seven designers have futures shining bright. We are excited for what is next to come.
