Before the Peter Pilotto show at London Fashion Week, makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver from M·A·C Cosmetics prepared the models for the runway and discussed his inspirations.
As the models were preparing to go on stage and present the looks of designer Peter Pilotto in London, we were lucky enough to talk to key makeup artist from M·A·C Cosmetics, Thomas de Kluyver about the look that he created and the products that he used.
Meshing With the Collection
It takes a lot to make a makeup design fit a collection’s asthetics, but de Kluyver found the roots of Pilotto’s style, noting that “the collection was very inspired by the 1970s, it’s Oriental-opium den rehash of previous trend. I love these metallic colors and I love the idea of doing makeup that’s not about covering up or doing a mask of makeup. It’s about using makeup to express yourself.”
Creating the Look
Taking inspiration from Peter Pilotto’s work, de Kluyver began to craft a strong metallic tone to the makeup design, simple yet adventurous. “I wanted to do something really playful,” de Kluyver said, “it’s like a touch on disco, but I love this idea of when you first start to play with makeup from the confines of your own bedroom. You’ve got a palate of colors in front of you before you go out and you just use your fingers”
de Kluyver also took a very avent-garde approach to applying the design. He pointed out “It’s a very free look, we’ve been applying all the eye shadow with our fingers and some of the models have been doing their makeup themselves… It’s an undone disco eye.”
The Products Used
The M·A·C Cosmetics kits used allowed for de Klyuver to take some interesting risks in coloration and in design of skin tones. “I wanted to do an alabaster, soft-focus matte skin, so I’m using the M·A·C Studio finishing series. Just a little under the eyes, a little under the nose. It’s very natural, very youthful skin, but matte for a different texture from the metallic eyes.”
“We’ve got three different kinds of eye shadow combinations… The first is the M·A·C fuchsia pigment and the M·A·C violet pigment… Then we’ve got the Golden Lemon pigment and then were using coppering eye shadow underneath the eye. The third eye we’re doing is with Moon’s Reflection eye shadow, which is a nice icy blue. And we’re just using our fingers to apply it.”
