Uri Minkoff, up-and-coming menswear designer and brother of Rebecca Minkoff, reinvents the wardrobe of the modern urban commuter in his Fall 2017 collection.
Synthesizing elements borrowed from athleticwear and the European charisma of superbly tailored suiting, the collection presents a series of sleek ensembles that are polished enough to suit the sensibilities of the contemporary young businessman and pragmatic enough to accommodate their fast-paced lifestyles.
[slideshow exclude=”IMG_8111.JPG”]For Minkoff, nailing the intersection of form and function does not necessarily involve sacrificing one for the other. His minimalist style is refreshing in that almost all elements of design that are aesthetically innovative also serve some kind of practical purpose. For instance, the chic cuffs and buttons at the ankles of the skinny trousers seem like a purely aesthetic design choice, but Minkoff explains that the buttons allow the pant legs to be rolled up and held in place in case the wearer is worried about chain grease while biking. Stretch wools in patterns like Prince of Wales look sophisticated and allow for increased mobility. Fitted sweaters feature accent stripes and zip fronts inspired by cycling jerseys, and pops of bright blue hidden in jacket linings and on the soles of shoes add not only a sporty touch but a sense of unity to the collection. Black puffers modernized with details like moto-inspired paneling fastened across the chest provide the weather protection needed to face the city’s blistering wind tunnels. The collection also has a strong emphasis on bags, which come in many forms and sizes to suit commuters’ range of needs.
Minkoff’s creative use of presentation further emphasized the integral relationship between his designs and the lifestyle of the urban commuter. The center of the showroom was meant to be envisioned as a bustling city crosswalk, completing with the familiar white striping subtly printed on ground. Models also performed as actors on this makeshift stage; some walked in pairs, as if engaged in conversation with a fellow commuter, and others walking alone periodically glanced at their watches or checked their phones.
Some models even rode and showed off tricks on bikes from a collaboration with Tribe bicycles, attesting to the range of motion made possible by business appropriate stretch fabrics and demonstrating the utility of the collection’s backpacks and miniature sling bags, which allow for hands-free storage. In ironic contrast to the cacophonous symphony of car horns and voices you’d expect to hear in a city, the soft jazz piano that accompanied the presentation created a vintage ambience that complemented the collection’s reinterpretation of vintage staples like long top coats, double-breasted suits, and briefcase-style bags. Business dress codes limit experimentation when it comes to designing clothing meant to be worn by real working men, but Minkoff’s balance of traditional and modern elements achieves just the right amount of innovation and reflects the simultaneous individuality and uniformity of the young urban commuter.
