New York City is filled with endless options for Italian cuisine. There are too many to choose from. Well, look no further, San Matteo Pizzeria e Cucina is churning out some of the best Italian food in Manhattan.
For authentic Italian eats, some of the most irresistible pastas, fresh insalatas, tender proteins, and decadent desserts are served at Piccola Cucina, four popular restaurants in New York City by chef and restaurateur Philip Guardione.
A few weeks ago, we tried the new Italian restaurant in Chelsea Market. A less rushed alternative to the market’s typical grab-and-go options, La Devozione offers fine dining, casual dining, a market of artisanal goods, and also takeout. If the restaurant’s name sounds familiar, it’s because they stem from a well known pasta manufacturer with roots dating back more than 110 years – Pastificio di Martino. Their story is fascinating, with the aforementioned origins to the first takeaway stand in Naples, to now expanding into restaurants in the United States. Our last visit involved dining at A Tavola, their casual dining area, and we couldn’t wait to try The Oval for an immersive tasting experience with Chef Alessio Rosetti.
Well, today was that day! We entered Chelsea Market and wandered over to the restaurant, nestled in the very center across from the open-concept food court. Soon, we were seated at the impressive chef’s counter: an oblong round tabletop surrounding state-of-the-art stovetops, ovens, pasta stations, and more, also known as The Oval.
We began our meal with a few cocktails: the American Rose and the Select Aperitivo. Both drinks had a citrusy, bitter flavor profile with the former boasting a bit of fizz and the latter holding a more floral component from the juniper berries. They paired perfectly with our first course, which was a wafer made of over-boiled and mashed up pasta, then spread thin, seasoned with classic italian herbs, and dried out. It also came with two breadsticks, and delicious ‘cookies’ made with pork fat and crushed almonds. So unique, with familiar tastes but brand new formats, made for the perfect carb-based appetizer.
The second course was our first pasta, the Spaghettini a Limone. Bright and acidic yet balanced due to the creamy provolone sauce, it excited us about the rest of the courses to come. Lemon pasta is one of my absolute favorite dishes, so I could have happily eaten an entire meal of this alone. Next, the Pacchero Calabria arrived. A plate of 4 large paccheri, each topped with bergamot glaze, smoked swordfish, and fennel fronds, were like little flavor explosions. Citrusy and fresh, earthy, and smoky essences filled your mouth for a true gastronomical experience. I loved this small, punchy dish!
Next, the Sogno Rosso was a spaghetti with caviar and parlsey foam that came out for our fourth course. It was plated gorgeously with voluminous bright green parsley foam that keeps its shape for longer than expected. The flavors, once swirled together, were earthy and complex. The Marco Polo, a roasted beet goat cheese pasta, arrived next: a bright magenta colored sauce served in a large wine glass. Goat cheese comprised the main flavor, which quickly melted and incorporated into the pink sauce. This brightened the dish and added a whipped, creamy texture.
Our next course was a pick-your-own adventure: either the Candele Rotto a Mare or the Candele BBQ. Of course, we each chose one so we could sample both dishes. The Candele Rotto a Mare was a cripsy medley of octopus, squid, cuttlefish, and asparagus covered in a ragu sauce. The result? A seafood-heavy flavor balanced by the classic, neutral comfort of a red sauce that blended perfectly. The Candele BBQ was one of our favorite items of the night, with sizzling pork belly and creamy artichoke.
The final food course was the restaurant’s namesake dish – La Devozione. A simple tomato basil sauce yet so complex and satisfying in flavor, this pasta absolutely cannot disappoint – and that’s due to the quality of its ingredients. Tomatoes are from Sorrento which are harvested in the summer and canned to send to the US in the fall. In contrast to San Marzano tomatoes, these are richer and sweeter, giving the sauce an extraordinary flavor. This was our favorite item last time as it’s also on A Tavola’s menu, and was definitely near the top this time as well.
For dessert, we had a lime tart, which was a unique twist on the indulgent lemon tart. We finished off our meal with smooth, creamy espresso brewed in the moka pots La Devozione sells in their market. They were a delicious end to a decadent, artful meal. We highly recommend The Oval to anyone looking for an experience far greater than just a meal – a creative, interactive Chef-led lesson in Italian cuisine.
Nestled into Chelsea Market, one of the first fine dining restaurants to grace the ever-popular market boasts authentic Italian cuisine, artisan goods, and more. La Devozione splits into 4 sections. First, their to-go pasta bar emulates the typical grab and go Chelsea Market food scene. Their artisan goods table displays hand crafted plates and cups from Italy, colorful Moka Pots, and Dolce & Gabbana collaboration gift boxes, and the walls are lined with bags full of every imaginable shape of pasta (or at least, far beyond the average American pasta imagination – 126 to be exact). The third part is their chef’s table, dubbed “The Oval,” where Michelin-starred chef Peppe Guida provides an interactive fine dining experience.
Finally, the fourth a part of La Devozione is A Tavola, their casual dining area. Featuring a sprawling set of square quad tables, the space has a modern feel that humbly offers you a taste of a storied 110-year old pasta business. Pastificio Di Martino has been making dried pasta for home consumption for over a century, and expanded into the restaurant scene with takeaway in Naples. Now, their first-ever establishment in the United States opened last November, to guests from all over the world. La Devozione is Italian for The Devotion in Italian, and their signature dish of the same name evokes the spirit of Italian dedication to quality cooking and well-sourced ingredients.
Giuseppe Martino, the third generation owner of Pastificio Di Martino, is the restaurant owner. Along with Chef Alessio Rosetti (Hotel Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera, Tony May’s SD26, Black Barn), he developed this menu to highlight traditional recipes based on the best ingredients. Bar Director Cristhian Rodriguez (formerly of NoMad Hotel and Eleven Madison Park) works with the bar staff to develop the unique cocktails featured on the menu, and each gets his stamp of approval before it’s offered to guests.
We stopped by on Wednesday to sample some of their authentic cuisine – starting off with drinks, we ordered the Redwood, a cherry and gin combo, and the Fantasma, a pisco-based lemon and strawberry drink. Each had distinct and unique flavors that were the perfect intro to our meal. For our appetizer, we had to try one of their highlights, the Lollipop Di Macaroni, a breaded macaroni and cheese lollipop with truffle-hazelnut sauce. With flavors both familiar and comforting from the mac n cheese and enticing from the truffle and hazelnut, this appetizer was incredible!
Next, for our main course, we had the restaurant’s namesake dish La Devozione. It’s spaghetti cooked in tomato sauce and fresh basil – their take on the classic spaghetti al pomodoro. The standout ingredient in this dish is tomatoes from Sorrento, which are harvested in the summer and canned to send to the US in the fall. In contrast to San Marzano tomatoes, these are richer and sweeter, giving the sauce an extraordinary flavor. The store will start selling these as soon as they arrive from this summer’s harvest, so stay tuned for their arrival on the shelves!
We finished off our meal with a nightcap and some dessert – their Figli Di Fiori cocktail, a cappuccino, and their Paris-Brest dessert. This gin and elderflower cocktail is one of their summer specialties, and was the perfect fizzy and light drink to top off a meal of delicious pasta. The cappuccino was strong yet perfectly palatable, with that satisfying espresso flavor rounded out with creamy, frothy milk. Finally, our dessert had layers of fluffy pastry, hazelnut chocolate creme, and was topped with hazelnuts. Each bite was perfectly creamy from the pastry, sweet from the creme, and crunchy from the nuts – the ultimate combo for a dessert. We loved our meal at A Tavola and can’t wait to come back to try The Oval. We even grabbed some of their signature pastas, the item that made them famous across Italy, and have our eyes on the Dolce & Gabbana box for next time
Make your reservation and learn more about La Devozione here!
A great take on traditional Italian food