Restaurant Review: Vestry

In the up-and-coming Hudson Square neighborhood, tucked into the ground floor of The Dominick Hotel, lies Michelin-starred restaurant Vestry. A seafood-forward menu, dreamt up by Australian chef Shaun Hergatt, graces the table as we settle into our seats. 

Chef Hergatt comes from acclaim across the culinary world. Australian-born with Scandinavian heritage, Shaun imparts his cuisine with bold, precise flavors, He won “best young chef” in Sydney before venturing to New York City, where he opened SHO Shaun Hergatt and earned two Michelin stars, Juni, which also earned a start, and now Vestry, which received a star in 2022 and 2023.

Vestry’s dining room is cozy and inviting, yet sleek and mysterious – think chalet meets NYC penthouse with touches of Japanese influence. It’s candlelit, and furs drape the backs of chairs. The space perfectly captures the essence of the two neighborhoods Vestry straddles: trendy, elegant Soho, and sophisticated business-centric Hudson Square. They’ve embraced the start of cooler weather with their decor (just like me and probably many other New Yorkers), but their menu still highlights the last vestiges of summer. Sweet corn risotto, blue prawns and crab, and ramps capture some of our seasonal favorite flavors. 

We started off our meal with a glass of their Sangiovese, which turned out to be my perfect glass of red: A 2019 Chianti Classico by Castagnoli. A sip of this, while in our comfy booth, felt like the perfect spot to catch up with an old friend while indulging in fine dining. Their bread service was quick to follow.

We ordered the Parmesan Milk Bread, which came in a small cast iron pan served with a side of homemade seaweed butter. The bread was fluffy, warm, and sensationally cheesy while somehow still feeling light and airy. It was almost impossible to stop eating, but we had to pause to make sure to enjoy everything else we’d ordered for the night. 

Our first starter, the West Coast Oysters, came with a unique ginger mignonette, lemon, and lime. The ginger in the mignonette really complimented the oysters’ briny, “sip-of-the-ocean” quality and elevated the overall bite. I’d never seen this pairing before and loved the flavor. Right after the oysters, we had the Yellowfin Tuna Tartare with sesame crisps and spicy sauce. It was unexpectedly citrusy and bright, and the sesame crisps offered the perfect textural foil to the buttery tuna. 

Our mains arrived next in the succession: the Sweet Corn Risotto, Faroe Island Salmon, and Goat Cheese Tortelloni. The risotto was absolutely divine. With zucchini, mascarpone, and chives, I couldn’t get enough of this creamy, sweet perfection. It felt like an inventive restaurant version of one of my favorite childhood dishes, my mom’s sweet corn soup. The salmon also truly impressed us. A lightly flavored beurre blanc-based sauce with pink peppercorn allowed the flavor of the fish to shine through, and the quality was unmatched. Finally, our tortelloni was delightful as well. The pickled ramps, lemon, and touch of tomato sauce brought an acidic brightness to the dish, which contrasted well with the warm, heavy goat cheese. I’m often wary of goat cheese in hot dishes, and this was one of the few times I think it worked incredibly. 

We were surprised with a special treat: the Potato “Ravioli” – this incredibly unique dish is General Manager Reuben Lirio’s favorite. It’s “perfectly balanced with earthy notes, as portobello mushrooms serve as the ravioli, wrapping around tender cooked potatoes.” A “luxurious truffle emulsion” takes it to the next level, “creating an amazing flavor profile that’s both unique and comforting.” Chef Hergatt’s favorite menu item is the 120-Day Dry-Aged Porterhouse, which ages for 4 months to ensure “each bite is packed with incredible flavor.” It’s served with “trumpet mushrooms, shallot marmalade, and elephant garlic” and is “a true celebration of balance and complexity, highlighting the dedication that goes into every detail.” 

The meal was so delicious and filling that we weren’t able to order dessert, but will have to come back as soon as we can to try it! I have my eye on the Jasmine Panna Cotta with Honeycomb and their famous Apple Cheesecake. Vestry stands out by blending “innovation with heart” – in addition to incredible culinary delights, they center “kindness, love, and genuine care” for their guests. Book your reservation at Vestry today, and make sure to try the summer menu before it disappears with the warm weather!  

Quotes from General Manager Reuben Lirio.