Hell’s Kitchen’s newest gem (or should I say one of its oldest?) reopened a few months ago on 51st Street. A bastion of the French community in New York City, La Tout Va Bien has a complex history.
Its doors were first opened in 1949 by French expats craving a piece of home, and it remained a favorite of other French New Yorkers and Francophiles alike. Over the next seven decades, La Tout Va Bien has changed management multiple times and had to close down for COVID-19, but it remains an icon in the French community.
When we arrived at the restaurant, we were surrounded by patrons both old and new. Our table neighbors had been dining there for over 40 years. They hadn’t forgotten the quality and ambiance they loved from the past and were delighted to return after the three year closure. Another duo sitting at the bar had stopped in on their NYC trip before a Broadway show. The restaurant’s new success lies in how beloved it was by its patrons and employees alike – the new owner, Vincent Caro, worked as a bartender at Le Tout Va Bien 15 years ago and wanted to recreate the atmosphere he loved.
Our meal was an elegant combination of French classics, including Escargots Persillés, Foie Gras, Duck l’Orange, and Steak Frites. For dessert, Profiteroles and Vacherin. The Terrine de Foie Gras Maison were sliced into perfect rounds, served with crisp white bread, and paired with a spiced apple chutney. The combination of the salty, buttery foie gras with the surprising sweetness of the chutney created that perfect Ratatouille moment, and my idea of the perfect bite: sweet and savory done right together. Our next appetizer, the Escargots, was divine – they arrived sizzling, fragrant garlic wafting out throughout the restaurant. The buttery sauce was delicious on its own paired with the rustic bread basket, but each bite of plump escargot took things to the next level.
Onto the main dishes – the Magret de Canard à l’orange was a tender slice of duck paired with a beautiful savory-sweet orange sauce, home fry-style roast potatoes, and garlicky green beans. The Steak Frites was paired with a creamy peppercorn sauce, equally scrumptious both with a forkful of the grass-fed NY strip or with a french fry.
After the decadent appetizers and main courses, we almost decided against dessert – but thank god we had some. La Tout Va Bien is known for their luxurious French desserts, from crèpes Suzette to soufflé, there’s no shortage of mouth-watering options. On this hot New York summer day, we had to go with the ice cream-based options: Profiteroles and Vacherin, which is fresh berries and meringue topped with vanilla and strawberry ice cream scoops. They hit the spot, and anyone who considers themselves as having a second stomach for ice cream will be able to make room like we did.
La Tout Va Bien recently started serving up brunch as well, and we can’t wait to be back to try it. As they promise on their website, c’est délicieux! Book your reservation today.