Seven designers made their international debuts at the Global Fashion Collective’s fourth and fifth New York Fashion Week shows on Sept. 8. 

Since 2017, the Global Fashion Collective, founded by Jamal Abdourahman, has given a platform for emerging and established designers to increase their exposure in international markets. This year, each designer adhered to a shared mission to create their works with eco-friendly practices and solutions that would address social and environmental issues in hopes of setting an industry standard of conscious and inclusive fashion.

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BayBee kicked off the day with their Spring/Summer collection, consisting of ready-to-wear pieces that intersect between casual and formal fashion. Self-taught designer and founder BayBee — whose works are often worn as costumes in films and magazines — blends innovative design with classic beauty in her minimalistic designs.

The collection utilized denims, tulle and lace for its dresses and skirts, using a neutral color palette suitable for daily wear. The different looks played with contrasting textures, such as fuzzy boleros or leather detailing. Complete with accessories and jewelry, BayBee’s collection is one you can see yourself in, which explains its commercial success in the Japanese market.

 

Naoko Tosa unveiled her “Sound of Ikebana (Spring, Summer)” collection on the runway. Tosa’s collection draws its inspiration from the fluid movements from sound vibrations, which are often invisible to the eye. These movements, according to Tosa, are asymmetrical like the Japanese Ikebana, which demonstrate harmony between heaven, man and earth. Tosa’s hope for the “Sound of Ikebana” collection is that it empowers and energizes its wearers for special occasions.

The gender-neutral collection featured striking designs printed onto recycled polyester, which were derived from recorded sounds of a newborn’s voice and captured with a high-speed camera at 1/2000 of a second. Each design popped against the textile with its vibrant color palette, reminiscent of Japanese flora from each season and reinforcing the collection’s celebration of life. 

 

LeA (Love is Everywhere Anywhere) showcased a timeless ready-to-wear collection that highlights the beauties of everyday life. Based out of Seoul, South Korea, the brand draws inspiration from the flexible curve of petals and flowers to design contemporary womenswear that is both elegant and versatile. 

Each look utilized a gentle color palette of whites, beiges, grays and pastels, accentuating the natural beauty of the wearer. Using smooth silks and mesh accents, LeA’s collection is form-flattering and classy, meant to accentuate the tender moments in life and celebrate love. 

 

Mahaud Paris’ collection demonstrated a commitment to promoting sustainable and stylish everyday wear. Designer Mathilde Covelli’s works adhere to the principle of “less is more,” remaining mindful of environmental impact and ecological challenges by emphasizing simplicity and functionality. 

Covelli’s designs are made with unsold socks and tights, a way to enhance their value as a material and change public perception on sustainability in fashion. The collection featured clean and eccentric designs, using florals and patchwork to accentuate the silhouette. Repurposing overlooked articles of clothing into statement pieces, Covelli’s designs played with the opacity of the material, contrasting it with bold tops or accessories. The collection demonstrated the beauty of these everyday items, as well as the durability of our wardrobes.

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Nashville brand Tess Mann Atelier debuted their Spring/Summer Sophisticate Collection, marking a departure from designer Tess Mann’s iconic bridal designs with its bold evening wear, resort wear, and gender-neutral designs. Tess Mann, an ex-federal law enforcement officer, was awarded the status of a USA Trademark Designer in Sept. 2018 for her commitment to authenticity and transformative fashion.

The collection featured flowy gowns and trousers made from sustainably sourced silk, chiffon, and jacquard. Between the pieces’ vibrant colors and striking detail — from hand embroidery to florals — Tess Mann Atelier’s collection maintained a playful balance between powerful and sensual. Each piece differed in length and occasion, some cocktail dresses and others full-length evening gowns, encouraging dress as a means of self-expression and a source of confidence. Tess Mann’s experience in bridal artistry is evident in the collection’s attention to detail, adding modern flairs to graceful and elegant designs in order to tailor each piece to an individual’s spirit. 

This celebration of personal identity continued with soi.’s debut collection “Shadow.” The Tokyo brand — which means “myself” in French — was established in 2022 by Ayana, whose mission is to promote self-love through exploration and expression. A past bridal model, Ayana’s extensive knowledge of the Japanese bridal industry inspired her to create innovative and unique dresses that diverge from industry norms.

In line with the show’s title, each model wore a veil or head covering to hide their face in order to allow the dresses to speak for themselves without drawing attention to the models’ appearances. Most of the dresses were named after and took inspiration from flowers, emphasizing the importance of the roots under the soil that foster growth. The collection featured soft-colored silks and voluminous tulle draping to provide unique and fresh looks with a personal touch in line with the brand’s mission. 

Miami-based brand Jemma Russo ethically sourced silk fabrics and genuine Italian leather from a family-owned Florence factory for their debut collection, which posed confidence and power as the core of elegance. Designer Jamila Russo’s works aim to empower women, ensuring they feel comfortable in their skin, yet stylish through her meticulous craftsmanship and premium materials. 

Unlike the other two brands, Jemma Russo’s designs utilized black and jewel tones in order to capture sophistication and power. The collection featured both dresses and pantsuits, each with unique detailing. The looks differed greatly in appearance, alternating between loud floral or animal designs, mesh detailing, and bold silhouettes, praising the diversity and individuality that comes with self-expression. Many of the models carried elegant handbags down the runway, demonstrating the functionality of Jemma Russo’s ready-to-wear looks for the “women on the move,” whom the brand hopes to reach through their works.