Women’s History Month has come to a close but at The Knockturnal that doesn’t mean the celebration stops here.
Dare to Design is a new monthly column featuring femme-identified up and coming designers based in New York City. We ask them about what wakes them up, what makes them tick and what keeps them going as they chase their dreams in the city. Our first designer is Constanza, an Argentinian clothing designer currently studying at Parsons. Read more to learn about how she got her start, her first impression of the New York City design scene and her thoughts on the Argentina fashion industry.’
The Knockturnal: How did you become interested in fashion? Tell us the timeline.
C: I started taking it more seriously when I was 15, taking courses, learning the basics of pattern cutting, working with fabric, really basic skills. I am originally from Argentina. There, there is not really a fashion industry and as much as there are fashion programs, the industry is very, very small. So, my intention and my family’s intention as well, was to have me study abroad. That’s when I started researching more in depth about fashion and building a portfolio for fashion schools. I ended up getting into Parsons so that’s how I moved to New York.
The Knockturnal: Was the portfolio something you did on your own in Argentina? Self-led?
C: Pretty much yeah, because as much as I took these courses it was very much me just showing what I am capable of doing and my intention was to get into a design school like FIT or Parsons.
The Knockturnal: Explain what you’ve learned at Parsons and how it led to the creation of your line. Are they separate or do they go hand in hand?
C: I started Parsons during a challenging time, January 2020. I started in person, but I did most of my degree online in Argentina because I had to go back because of the pandemic. In Argentina my family does farming so for that year I lived on our farm. I really had nothing to do so I just started sewing and making all these designs which were also a part of our assignments and school projects but also for myself. When I moved to New York in 2021, I had a lease, and everything was more solid. We were still online but I was craving more of that in person experience, so I looked for internships and got an internship at Oscar De La Renta that summer. That really gave me more perspective because sometimes at fashion school we get this overly artistic experience, and when we get into the industry we face this reality that is not quite what we were taught to do. So, I think that going to a brand, especially such a big-name brand in New York really gave me that sort of commercial perspective. January 2022, I started gathering the samples I had made for Parsons and sampling fabrics. I started doing this small production and that’s how I started my brand. So it’s a really recent launch.
The Knockturnal: I noticed that your line is available at Art to Ware.
C: You reminded me, I should take that down because I’m not really going to be working with them anymore. I was available with them for a while, eight months. I love the store, I find what they do amazing but maybe my pieces are not really quite the fit for that location.
The Knockturnal: Speaking of your pieces, what is the inspiration for your line? How would you describe it?
C: The way that I describe it is an invitation for people to celebrate themselves and the spontaneous harmony of life. I know that sounds a bit abstract but for me it means clothes that invite you to celebrate the moment and enjoy the moment and create memories for the future. Clothes that accompany your daily life but with more of a special touch.
The Knockturnal: Where did the inspiration come from it?
C: I guess the way I dress and my relationship to fashion. I like to dress up as much as I can and take a moment for myself to choose how I want to look, choose how I want to make myself feel it’s more like a sensorial experience. You know taking that moment, looking at yourself, being present with yourself, having this conversation with yourself through clothes. It’s less about how other people see you and more about how you see yourself.
The Knockturnal: Like how you feel?
C: Exactly yeah.
The Knockturnal: That’s so cool! What is the design and production process?
C: So most of my pieces I design them at Parsons with specific prompts. For example, design a shirt and give my perspective to it. My design process is very spontaneous, I love draping, I always start with the fabric on the dress form and then put it down on paper. To me working with slopers or premade patterns doesn’t really work because you miss that creative magic. For production, I’ve only done one production so far. I did it in New York City and that’s very important to me, making things in New York City, in the US. I think it’s really important to reinvigorate those values of local production and it’s easier for small businesses. I did it in the garment district, in this small sample room with [the owner] and I sort of built a relationship with her and started working with her and we did the production. It was definitely hard; it was my first experience doing something like that and I definitely learned a lot.
The Knockturnal: How do you think that’s going to inform your line in the future? That first run?
C: After that last summer, I did a lot of different pop ups in the city and in the Hamptons. I learned a lot about what people look for in clothes which is different from what a designer sees. When you go stores and you look at the fabric or the garments, I have more of a critical experience when I’m shopping. I found that people who are more foreign to fashion don’t really have that so I found that my choice of fabrics have changed a lot. I’m focusing more on knit fabrics because I found that’s what people gravitate more towards. It’s more amicable for sizing, for different body types, it’s easier to work with as well and its less finishing work when you’re thinking about production. And also working more with print design, you know more color, designing less of a silhouette and more of a fabric. That’s kind of where I’m at.
The Knockturnal: Have there been any surprises since you started in the New York fashion scene? The pretty, the ugly?
C: I feel like New York is a very trendy environment, it’s like what’s happening right now. Getting people’s attention is the hardest part, I think. New York is like…once the cool person is doing it everybody wants to do it and jump in. As much as there is that small clientele that looks for something different, it’s kind of hard to pinpoint where they are and how to reach them. I think that right now my main focus is to grow on social media, as much as it’s not my favorite channel it’s very necessary these days, increasing my network of people in New York. How many you know, who can wear your garments, see who is interested. Also getting some boutiques or stores to carry your pieces, they look more at your following and audience than your actual piece because that’s what they care about. It’s about who’s wearing it, who likes it, getting the people part down, that’s the most important look.
The Knockturnal: You said there isn’t really a fashion industry in Argentina…do you see one emerging there?
C: I think there could be. The thing is that Argentina is going through a really complicated economic situation. Another thing is, a fact by default, is that Argentina and the southern hemisphere in general is like one season behind so almost unconsciously they bring ideas from what was done in previous years in Europe, New York, LA, the big fashion places. So that’s kind of the one thing that’s keeping it from being not as creative. There are local fashion brands of course, but they are sort of bringing what was done at Paris fashion week and bringing it to the local customer. And also lack of materials as well, the amount of fabrics, trims and details in New York, you cannot find them anywhere. The details, the finishing touch that’s very much something you can do here.
The Knockturnal: Where do you see your brand going?
C: I am planning on doing pop ups this summer as well, it’s an easier time for small businesses. Winter is so busy; people have a lot on their minds. Collaborating with other small designers to create alternative pieces. I have this hair accessory designer friend; we want to collaborate on shoots and do popups together. I have also collaborated with jewelry designers so building more of a community not only with the customers but also with the emerging designer community as well.
The Knockturnal: What’s the best advice you’ve gotten? Alternatively, what’s advice you’d give someone else who wants to do what you’re doing?
C: Be very concentrated, be very dedicated, New York is very competitive and also, be patient. We live in a very instant gratification society and being an entrepreneur, having your own business or project is not instant gratification, it takes a while to build and I am building mine right now. It’s constantly growing. It’s much harder than going to a big designer house, working as a designer. You’re going to learn a lot but as an entrepreneur you’re not going to expect the same result as your designer or assistant designer colleague.
To check out Constanza’s line visit her website at https://constanzanewyork.com.