Restaurant Review: La Dong Masterfully Puts the Heart and Soul of Vietnamese Cooking Onto a Plate

One of the best Vietnamese dinners we have had in New York City, by a long shot

For foodies who follow the Michelin Guide, La Dong has been the talk of the town. Lauded as one of Manhattan’s most exciting new Vietnamese restaurants, La Dong brings authentic Vietnamese flavors to the heart of the city. What truly sets it apart is its unique drink program, which infuses quintessential Vietnamese numerology and ingredients into its cocktails. We had a chance to visit La Dong for ourselves, and it certainly did not disappoint.

As soon as you walk into La Dong, you are transported to a space that beautifully marries classic Vietnamese decor with vibrant, modern touches. A stunning, colorful mural of a woman in a Vietnamese straw hat and delicate floral wallpaper set a sophisticated yet playful tone, while the glowing paper lanterns add to the warm and inviting ambiance. It’s an experience that feels both elegant and fun from the moment you walk in the door.

We started our dining experience with some of the cocktails made by Beverage Director Jaru Jaruthiphayakhantha, which is rooted in Vietnamese numerology and themes – from prosperity and balance to vibrancy and happiness. The first drink we opted for was the cocktail named after this restaurant, La Dong. The inspiration behind this drink is rooted in the Mai Tai and is made with Probitas rum, roasted banana leaf, Brazilian banana liqueur, house-made macadamia orgeat, and Agave de Cortes reposado. The rum provides a rich, layered base with distinct tropical notes such as coconut, that paired with the reposado adds a distinct caramel sweetness to it. The roasted banana leaf adds roasted earthiness which transitions beautifully into the banana liqueur. This drink captures the tropical fruitiness of the classic mai tai but is able to push the boundaries with how it layers a lot of the flavors.

Next up is the Mắm Tôm, La Dong’s unique riff on a spicy margarita. What makes this cocktail a standout is the chili-shrimp paste-washed mezcal, which is expertly paired with lemongrass, coconut, and nước mắm. This was one of our favorites of the night, as the mezcal’s subtle roasted flavor complemented the pineapple’s sweetness, creating an almost grilled-pineapple taste. The chili-shrimp paste gives the drink a distinct and addictive funk and spice. What truly makes it shine, however, is that it’s clarified, giving it a much smoother mouthfeel and a less aggressive kick.Moving on to the food, La Dong has a menu that is split into two sections. The first part features the chef’s specialties, where they take classic Vietnamese dishes and give them a modern twist. The second part is for the items you’d expect: the classic dishes you find at any traditional Vietnamese restaurant. When it was time to pick, our server didn’t hold back. She strongly recommended we order most of our meal from the specialties section. Her personal favorites were the Steamed Rice Cake and Pate and Bone. Her guidance made it clear where La Dong’s focus—and the kitchen’s energy—really lies. 

We took our server’s advice and started with the Steamed Rice Cake. This dish is a powerhouse of classic Vietnamese flavors: shrimp, dried shrimp, scallion oil, shallot, and garlic, all served with a house-made dipping sauce.  When it came to the table, our server recommended that we give a generous pout of the speciality Vietnamese dipping sauce into each rice cake so the sauce fully coats the cake and allows the rice to absorb all the flavor.  If done this way, each cake serves as an umami bomb.  The flavors of the dried and cooked shrimp shine, offering a sweet, yet funky flavor for the bouncy and gluttonous rice cake.  Each bite sung with shrimp flavor and made for the perfect opening to our meal.

Next up was the Pate and Bone, a dish that proves to be a must-have for any lover of rich charcuterie. This plate featured chicken liver mousse, bright pickle, and a side of bone marrow still served in the bone, all accompanied by slices of toasted baguette.  The pate itself is silky smooth, providing a profound, earthy depth. It’s paired with a classic jelly (which adds a pinch of sweetness) that perfectly cuts through the richness, allowing the savory notes to truly shine. The addition of the bone marrow, with its gelatinous texture and deep, meaty flavor complement the pate beautifully.  This dish truly soars when all components are combined on the baguette. The bite begins with the satisfying crunch of the toast, followed by the pate and marrow melting instantly on the tongue—a rush of rich and silky texture that climaxes with the earthy flavor of the bone marrow.

For our entrees, there were three standouts at La Dong we must try, according to our server.  These three were the Wagyu Pho, the Cá Chiên Nước Mắm, and the Cà Ri Sườn Bò.  All three of these dishes were from the La Dong speciality menu, and they did not disappoint at all.

We started off with the Wagyu Pho, which is made with two types of Wagyu (Miyazaki A5 Wagyu and American Wagyu).  This dish comes with the chefs speciality pho broth, garlic pickle, chili, and lime so that guests can adjust the acidity and spice levels to their preference.  The bowl arrived with the chef’s specialty pho broth, along with the traditional accompaniments of garlic pickle, chili, and lime, allowing us to adjust the flavor profile. We prefer our pho spicy and bright, so we added a generous amount of pickle and chili, and doused the broth with lime juice. A quick word of caution: the chili is seriously spicy, so approach with care!

Our first sip of the broth was unforgettable. It was rich and savory, with a deep, slow-cooked feel. Adding the lime juice gave it a beautiful tang that instantly brightened the flavor, making it pop. The noodles were perfectly bouncy and soaked up all the flavor of the broth. But the real star was the beef. Every slice of the Wagyu was tender, fatty, and practically melted in our mouths, delivering a decadent, rich, and deeply satisfying taste.

Next up was the Cá Chiên Nước Mắm, their famous fried branzino dish. The whole fish arrives de-boned and cut into bite-sized pieces, served with a special sweet fish glaze sauce. This dish was easily our favorite of the night. The branzino is lightly fried, giving the exterior the lightest, most satisfying crunch while the delicate white meat inside stays beautifully moist and tender. The sweet fish glaze was an incredible component; its sticky, savory-sweet flavor clung perfectly to the crispy fish, offering a balanced contrast. It’s a dish where the texture and the sweet-savory punch of the glaze truly make the mild, flaky fish meat shine. Our final dish was the Cà Ri Sườn Bò, a hearty Vietnamese yellow curry featuring tender braised short ribs, baby potato, star fruit, and coconut milk, served with toasted baguette. This curry was creamy, spicy, and incredibly fragrant.  The short rib cubes were cooked perfectly; they were so tender they melted in our mouth without any resistance. The curry sauce was deeply savory and coated the meat entirely, creating a wonderful, luscious mouthfeel. The coconut milk added a necessary sweet richness that played beautifully against the meaty flavor, and the baby potatoes did their job, soaking up every bit of that flavorful sauce. It was a comforting and rich end to the savory portion of our meal.When the last bite was taken and the final cocktail sipped, we could definitively say that La Dong delivered one of the best Vietnamese dining experiences we’ve had in a long time. The true strength of the kitchen lies in the chef’s specialties, where the heart of Vietnamese cooking is clearly felt while offering guests exciting, innovative techniques and presentations. The cocktails also stand out, using unique ingredients and themes that cleverly nod to Vietnamese culture and pair perfectly with the food. La Dong is a restaurant that successfully balances the comfort of tradition with the thrill of the new, making it an essential visit.