Commerson is a Major Miracle in Mid-Wilshire

There are few things as divine as great food. A cheap massage, a surprise Venmo, calling out sick to binge “Dancing With the Stars” – all blessings from on high.

So when I hit Commerson and was treated to a veritable hit parade of high end culinary creativity, I considered myself lucky.

This Mid-Wilshire mainstay is a mix of fine-dining and familiar fare, though it’s generally more elite.

The night started with a very pleasing-to-the-eye gin-based cocktail, Le Colonial. Gin is my favorite, a real joy of mine, and this drink took it to a sweet place I’ve never experienced it in. It was equally surprising and satisfying.

The crudite, which I did not know how to pronounce, was a cornucopia of farm-fresh vegetables with hummus for dippin. It was delicious, a healthy and crunchy lead up to some decadent main courses.

Spaghetti bolognese was hearty and thick, a steal on the happy hour menu. The parmigiano was perfectly balanced with the olive oil, a succulent crumble that lingered well after the first bite.

My heart yearned for the Miso Salmon, and it was delivered with divine grace. It’s a big hit, I was told, and I can taste why.

It’s a classic rendering of a beloved dish, presented with accoutrements that elevate it well above most fine-dining. Perfectly-cooked and served in dashi broth, it sits on a bed of daikon, a mix of textures I can very-much-so get down with.

And mercy, the mushrooms. I’ve been a vocal opponent of Big Mushroom for years, but I may have just converted. Soaking in the aforementioned salmon sauces, I couldn’t get enough.

Homemade campanelle soothed my existential dread – this was a mom dish if mom was a world-class chef with access to the freshest ingredients. The herbs, shallots, and, you guessed it, mushrooms, took this gorgeous pasta dish to heights unseen. It was hearty without being oppressive, and packed much flavor in small bites.

The short rib was a real stunt – served on top of mashed potatoes and gravy, it’s a masculine and meaty yet tastefully delivered dish. The meat falls off the fork, so tender and familiar that you want to bottle it up for lonely nights in front of the tv.

So that’s a lot of food, and though my body was hesitant, my spirit was strong. I had the apple galette for dessert, which is a plateful of granny smith apples, vanilla caramel sauce and walnut praline ice cream. The caramel stood out here, a unifying flavor in a decadent dish. The entire thing was rich and approachable, something that could be served in a banquet hall or a luxe gala.

If it’s not clear, I enjoyed myself. Commerson is a classic and creative entry in Mid-Wilshire’s hyper-competitive restaurant scene, a warm take on high-end food.