BERLIN FASHION WEEK: Sustainability, Space, and Rebellious Femininity Take Center Stage in Berlin

Over the years, German fashion has slowly shed its image of being a deadly serious affair, with its often-somber silhouettes and straight-laced academic ideas, to something that is far more cutting edge, fun, and organic in character; exploring the bounds of beauty, wearability, and approachability. Berlin Fashion Week is the culmination of these ideas, with a week of celebration and shows.

The Berlin Difference

Having attended a number of fashion weeks around the world, Berlin’s Fashion Week is by far the most accessible- its almost impossible to navigate the city without stumbling onto a street activation, a retail store experience, fashion show, or party. Concerned with youth but not limited in scope, Berlin Fashion Week prizes creativity and self-confidence over anything else. This year’s spring/summer collections were no exception, with aesthetic trends focusing on resort wear, Americana and mildly 80’s aesthetic. It seems like there are some table stakes requirements for showing in Berlin. Almost all designers sent models of all ages and sizes, along with highly diverse audiences representing all corners of creativity.

Shows hosted as part of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week were located at the beautiful Hotel Telegraphenamt, in the center of the city. Attendees of the shows enjoyed espresso produced by La Cimbali, Vöslauer water, and Monetto Prosecco along with encounters with the Mercedes-Benz Will.I.AMG concept vehicle and fashion installations presented by Mercedes-Benz.

Fashion Shows

Malūne Spring/Summer 2023 – Headed by veteran designer Frida Weyer, Malūne’s Spring Summer 2023 collection is all about the seaside, with heavy references to the Art Deco heyday of Miami through to the Vice days of the late 80s. Geometric, layering, and flowing, the color story took guests to the Florida Keys, the Bahamas and even the Mexican city of Mérida. The garments exude joy and charm.

Easily regarded as explosions of color, architecture served as an important reference for the designer. The collection was rife with flattering summer dresses, airy beach-to-bar looks and statement jackets for when the cool night sets in. Learn more about Malūne and shop the brand here.

Rebekka Ruétz Spring/Summer 2023 – Consumed by self-expression and a version of femininity that is as rebellious as much as it is indulgent, the Rebekka Ruétz summer collection exercised minimal restraint, opting for bold combinations of texture and patterns- everything from marble to botanics were on the moodboard, along with all shapes and silhouettes, overwhelmingly informed by the aesthetics of natural materials.

Sensations of freedom and confidence came from the accessories in the form of oversized eyewear and seemingly-colliding messages of “fragile” and “spirited”, written across some garments. Even a few bicycles ride by models made it onto the runway, affirming a real sense of liberation. Learn more about Rebekka Ruétz and shop the brand here.

#Damur Spring/Summer 2023 – Even prior to the fashion show, Damur offered space for guests to socialize and get acquainted with each other, along with chances to received tattoos or try a hand at graffiti. At this compelling fashion show, it was clear native Taiwanese designer Shih – Shun (Damur) Huang takes pleasure in experimentation while keeping circular sustainability as a priority.

The result of these shared concerns is a collection filled with tailored yet unpredictable silhouettes. A restrained color palette of blues and white is paired with crisply-creased pants and occasional grid motifs. Distinctive face art offered a degree of whimsy and intergalactic character. Learn more about #Damure here.

Marcel Ostertag Spring/Summer 2023 – Known for his interest in sustainability, one of the most unique aspects of Ostertag’s spring/summer collection was the handmade macrame beaded dresses and tops. Created independently and by hand, the designer draped the jewelry across a number of garments, adding bold element of texture and wearable art to otherwise vintage-tinged pieces.

The idea is an interesting examination of how, so often, sustainability can result in truly one-of-a-kind items. Colors and materials were bright, glittery and expensive in feeling, especially when considering the incorporation of many hues of lush green. Learn more about Marcel Ostertag here.

Parties and Retail Experiences

No one ever claimed that Berlin doesn’t know how to throw a party. This was especially true during fashion week, where a major light was cast upon the robust collection of retail shops and boutiques dotting the city. Highlights included the immersive STUDIO183 “Spaced Out Party”, a truly out-of-this-world event at the STUDIO183 concept store in Berlin’s Bikini Berlin shopping area. Guests were able to interact with a boldly-curated collection of clothing from a wide range of designers. Guests were also treated to a virtual dressing room which allowed clothing to conform to your body in real time. In addition to its own collections, the label represents designers and artists such as Assembled Half, Form of Interest, Smilla Brav and Aflé Bijoux.

Across town, fashion enthusiasts descended (or rather, swarmed) the afterparty for the STUDIO2RETAIL x PLATTE.Berlin show, which happened earlier in the day. PLATTE.Berlin is known as a place of creative incubation, where pop-up events, showrooms, exhibitions, regularly take place, along with offering a platform for creatives, with an increasing focus on sustainability.

The Studio2Retail Fall Winter 2022 fashion event showed work by a large variety of designers including Damur, 7585, At Eye Level, Bondy, Dennis Chuene, FadeOut, Haram, Isabella Rudzki, Joulala, Khassel, Kolo, Leinz, Lettau, Lu La Loop, Luise Zücker, Millicent Nobis, Ministry of Upcycling, Myl Berlin, Starstyling, Susumu Ai, Tata Christiane, Therapy Recycle & Exorcise, Experimental Child, and W1P. The variety of fashion was impressive, showing so many considerations of style and concept. The well-deserved afterparty featured PLATTE.Berlin-branded champagne, a bumping DJ set, and a crowd that spilled into the street long into the night.

Learn more about Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin here. Learn more about the broader Berlin Fashion Week program here.